IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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1^  M2^    12.5 

•tt  1^    12.2 

it  lis  IM 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 

1980 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techriiques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6tA  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cat  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


0 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


D 
D 


Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommag6e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurAe  et/ou  pelliculAe 


D 
D 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 


D 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


y 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tacheties  ou  piqu^es 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/cr  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


D 
D 
□ 


Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  ('impression 


D 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


D 


Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 


r~T|    Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 


D 


along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 

distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  4t6  film^es. 


D 
D 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires: 


0 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

V 

12X                              16X                             20X                              24X                             28X                             32X 

The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Nova  Scotia  Public  Archives 


L'exemplaire  filrn^  fut  reproduit  grace  d  la 
g6n6rosit^  de: 

Nova  Scotia  Public  Archives 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet6  de  I  exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  film6s  en  commengant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
ddrni^re  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film^s  en  commencant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derni^re  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning    'CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning    "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  selon  lo 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signifie   "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required    The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  etre 
film^s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  etre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film^  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  ^  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

m 


TH 


A  bCOTIA" 

LAND  "I- I-A'ANGLLINI-: 


i{KAthi;i»   IN  r»  r.,  17  iioi,i??s  us  : 

niKiNAu.^cn  Tiiss'.cc): 


■ft  ^"^ 


^-^   -  r 


,  <v 


(**p«    nio"-iiHon 


*4i^uj^' 


■^^PlHNvyS  t-TO  •?•  RENH^ 


a 


Pianos 


SOLD 


ON 


FINE 
BEST 


PRICES  I 
TERMS 


174  T] 


PUBLIC    ARCHIVES 
NOVA  SCOTIA 


Presented  by: 

Rev.  C.  H.  Johnson, 
opryfield,  N,3. 


1952. 


VERY  INSTRUMENT 
ULLY  WARRANTED. 


30. 

CH  AVENUE, 
Mf  YORK. 


OLD 


Pianos 


TAKEN 


IN 


E 


' 


1^; 


Pianos  Tuned  and  Repaired 


)> 


LD 

NOS 

(EN 

ANGE. 


f^Jfc^       /"O-O      An     yu^-fL-y^o-  c« 


^MSTCHLFS  PUR6  FRUIT  SYRUPS."^ 


FLAVORS. 

Blackberry. 
Blood  Orange. 
Oherry. 
Coffee. 
Ginger. 
Ginger  Ale. 
Lemon. 
Limes. 

*      -* 

Directions  for  Use. 

One  table  spoonful 
or  more  to  a  ((lass  of 
ice,  soda  or  any  aerated 
or  spring  water. 


PFeRPAF^ED     B^• 


FLAVORS. 

Pineapple. 
Raspberry. 
Easpberry  Shrnb. 
Easpberry  Vinegar. 
Eed  Currant. 
Sarsaparilla. 
Strawberry, 
Vanilla. 


Price  for  each  Flavor. 

75  cents  per  bottle. 
$7.50  per  dozen. 


THEODORE  METCALF  CO.,  39  Tremont  St.,  and  Copley  Sq.,  Boston. 


'/■ 


-»>»- 


fouRisTs'  Clothing 

CLEANSED    OR    DYED. 


-O 


Tennis  Suits  and  all  kinds  of  clothing  for 
Men,  Women  and  Children  cleansed  or  dyed. 
The  best  work  possible  to  be  done. 

^  liEWATf  DO'S  §^ 

French  Dyeing  and  Cleansing  Establishment, 


17  Temple  Place 
BOSTON. 


'    * 


365  Fifth  Avenue, 
NEW  YORK. 


+  BUNDLES    SENT    BY    MAIL    OR    EXPRESS   + 


»Rin>  FOB  PRICE  LIAT. 


0       ESTABLISHED  1B29. 


LARGEST  IN  AMERICA. 


HOTEL  LORNE 


Yarmouth,  N.  S. 


EXTENSIVE  improvements  having  just  been  completed  in  this  house,  it  now  possesses 
'fifty  Bedrooms,  Ladies'  Parlor,  two  Gentlemen's  Parlors,  Billiard  Rooms  exclusively  for 
guests;  Hot  and  Cold  Baths,  Electric  Bells,  and  all  modern  improvements.  This  house  is 
conducted  on  first-class  principles,  and  will  be  found  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any  house  in 
the  Lower  Provinces. 

The  LoRNE  has  one  of  the  largest  and  most  elegant  Dressing  Rooms  in  the  Province. 

Passengers  on  the  boat  have  ample  time  to  get  breakfast  before  the  train  leaves.  The 
Hotel  is  only  three  minutes'  walk  from  the  wharf.* 

Terms  moderate  to  transient  and  permanent  boarders.  :  ^    " 

Livery  Stable  in  connection  with  Hotel.    Cabs  always  in  attendance.  i' 

^ __ J.  H.  HURLBERT,  Proprietor. 

S W E ETSE R'S  "GUIDE" BOO K^      T~-: 

-^-.^.^^  .••••••  flH^^-^^  — 

"  Incomparable  hand-books  for  the  tourist."  —A'.  )'.  Et^eHing  Post. 
THF    MARITIMF     -^  (iuldetothc  chief  Cities.  Coasts,  and  Islands  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  of  Canada,  and  to  their  .Scenerj' and 
rinrlii/kiAI-r^  Historic  .Attractions :  with  tiu-  C.ulf  and  Kiver  of  St.  Uwrence  to  Quebec  and  Montreal;  al.so  Newfoundland  and 

PROVINClSi  the  Labrador  Coa.st.     With  4  Maps  and  4  I'lans.     Revised  for  1892.     i6nio,  jd-fo. 

■•  \oii  should  take  a  good  guide-lxM>k     Sweetser's  Maritime  Province*  U  by  far  the  best  —  contamingeverythinK  almut  tlie  various  parts  of  the  Provinces." 

—  British  American  Citittn. 

THE    WHITE       '^  t'Uide  to  the  Peaks.  1'a.s.ses.  and  Ravines  of  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  and  to  the  Adjacent  Railroads, 

HiRhwavs.  and  VillaRes:  with  the  Lakes  and  Mountains  of  Western  Maine,  also  Lake  Winnepesaukee  and  the  Upper 

MOUNTAjNSi     Connecticut  Valley.    With  6  Maps  and  6  Panoramas,  including  the  new  .Appalachian  Club  M.ips.     Revi.sed  for  1892. 

i6mo,  f  1.50. 

NEW  '"^  (Juide  to  the  Chief  Cities  and  Popular  Resorts  of  New  L'.ngland,  and  to  its  Scenery  and  Historic  Attractions.    With  the 

_.   1/.    .  .,_       Western  and  Northern  Borders  from  New  York  to  Quebec.    With  6  Maps  and  11   Plans.     Revi.sed  and  enlarged  for  1892. 

ENGLAND.   i6mo.$..5o. 


SOJjU    HY  HOOKSJBLLBBS.      sent,    POSTPAItt,    BY 


HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN    &    CO. 


BOSTON,    MASS. 


THE  YHRMOUTH  STEAMSHIP  CO.  (litv^itedj 


e^v.TfVlMm* 


THROUGH     TICKELTS     AND     S-TATEROOMS 


can  be  secured  In  advance   upon  application  to  the  following  agencies;   also  from  all  agents  on  the  Windsor  &  Annapolis. 
Western  Counties  and  N.  S.  Central  Railways,  Davison's.  Staillng's  and  Balcom's  Coach  Lines: 


Hodtno,  Maa«. 


New  Turk,  X.  T 
Worr««ter.      Mi 


Lowell. 

Lyan. 

ttalem. 

Haverhill. 

Wobnm, 

Nnrthaniploa. 

Ma.vnard. 

HprlnKfield, 

W»lthani. 

Taunton, 
PItchburK. 




•« 

M 
•4 
»* 
M 
•« 
•« 
•• 
M 



•« 
M 

•• 

«• 
»4 

•  • 

w 


I  G.  HALL  &  CO.,  M  Chatham  St. 

THOS.  COOK  &  SON,  OTJ  WashinRton  St 

W.  H.  EAVES.  "  Parker  HouHc." 

RAVMONI)  &  WlinCOMH,  •.".m  Washinjrton  St 

THOS.  COOK  &  SO.\.  •JilJ  Hroadway. 

CEO.  Y.  LANCA.S  IKK.  tM  Main  Strwt.       • 

W.  I..  CJIl'KCH  &  CO. 

0.  F.  RAWSON. 

R.  W.  WHKEI.OCK,  .W  E!»8e.x  .st. 
DENL'^  MLRrHV,  i»  Appletun  St. 
WALDO  TIIOMKSON  «:  SO.N,  H»  Central  .Sq. 
W.  IIAROV  DAVKIN,  '.Ml  Essex  St. 
FRANK  K.  WVMAN,  :i-  Park  .St. 

D.  HOOK  &  SON. 
FREDERIC  B.  LEEDS. 
J.  \V.  ARNOLD. 

1.  n.  DEANE. 

E.  S.  BATCHELDEK,  Main  .«;t. 
R.  Ci.  MARSHALL,  x:  Hall  -St. 
ARTHUR  SANDERSON,  .nm  Crescent  >t. 
H.  \V.  PINKERTON,  ti  Winthrop  St. 

F.  C.  CURRIER  &  SON. 

(HIawa.  tint. CA 


Wlnrlien<l<>n.  Maaa 
(iardnrr,  *• 

>'«rth  .%dMini><    " 
ip«wirh.  ** 

Kail  River. 
I'rovldrnre,   H.  I. 

>ianrhe»ler,  N.  H. 
Yarmouth,  N.  S, 
Halifax. 


Aniia|Mtllit,       **  

I»«l»b.v.  ••  

Bear  Klver.     ••  

llarrinKton.  

shelliurne.       '•  

i.orkport  "         

Liverpool,        ■*  

l.nnenbnrK.     "         — •  ■ 

>l.  .lohn.  >.  B 

Toronto.  <lnt.  

XAUA  ATLANIIC  RAILWAY 


.E.  S.  MERRILL  &  SON. 

A.  }       'KRSAM. 

.C.  h.  ..CHHARD. 

.FREDERIC  WII.LCOMll. 

.JAMES  DICKETT.  lUi  Rodman  .St. 

.\V.  II.  cm  RCII  it  to..  1   Wcvlxwset  St. 
F.  »i.  WINDSt)R. 
WM.  A.  IUR(iES.s. 
.  W.  A.  CHASE, 
..C.  R.  HARRV,  IJii  Holli-,  Street. 
,  G.  M.  CONNOR,  North  Street  DeiMit. 
..PICKFORD  «c  m.ACK. 
..GEO.  E,  COR  HUT. 
..TIRNBULL  &  WELSH. 
..V.  T.  IIARDWICK. 
..H,  DOANE. 
..GE«».  A,  CO.\, 

..ge(»R(;k  redding, 
..j.  c.  i1artlin(;  &  co. 
..\v.  l.  ro.mkev. 

.  C.  McLAL'CHLAN  i\-  SON. 
..B.  CCMBERLAND. 


J.  F.  SPINNEY,  Agent 


Pier 


I,  Lewis  Wharf,   Boston. 


2'^e  Pith  of  the  .Yews  from  Home 

IS  TO  BE  FOUND  EACH  WEEK  IN  THE 


BHITISH  flJIIEHlGAfl  CITIZEN 


7     BROMKIELD    STREET,    BOSTON. 

ALL  NEWSDEALERS,  FIVE  CENTS.  SAMPLE  COPIES  FREE. 


NOVA  SCOTIA 


THE    LAND  OF   EVANGELINE 

AND   THE  TOURIST'S   PARADISE 

REACHED  IN   15  TO  17  HOURS  BY 

The  Yarmouth  Steamship  Co, 

(LIMITEID.) 

ILLUSTRATED  WITH  FULL  PAGE  PHOTOGRAVURE  VIEWS  DIRECT  FROM  THE  ORIGINAL 
NEGATIVES,  BY  C.  B.  WEBSTER,  AND  WITH  ENTIRELY  ORIGINAL  TEXT,  BY 

THOMAS  F,  ANDERSON  - 


PRICE, 


2/5  CENTS 


BOSTON 

The  Yarmouth  Steamship  Co 
1892 


I 


C.    B.    Webster, 

publisher, 

Boston,  Mass. 


LONG  Falls,  Tusket  River. 


"Traveler  hurrying  from  the  heat  .  .      .  ,^  > 

Of  the  city,  stay  thy  feet ! 

Rest  awhile,  nor  longer  waste  ■»    ' 

Life  with  inconsiderate  haste." 

SWEET  and  balmy  and  joyous  in  spring-time ;  transcendently  beautiful  and  picturesque  in  summer;  inspiring  and  uplift- 
ing in  its  peaceful  autumnal  e^iandeur ;  restful  and  scintillating  with  beauty  even  when  the  white  mantle  of  winter  has 
been  thrown  over  its  varied  landscai)e — the  most  magnificent,  hospitable,  health-giving,  peaceful  and  alluring  resting  place 
ever  set  apart  for  tired  and  care-worn  mankind  —  such  is  the  province  of  Nova  Scotia. 

Such,  indeed,  has  it  ever  been,  but  it  is  not  until  these  latter  days  of  ours  that  its  existence  has  become  known  to  others 
than  its  open-hearted  inhabit;mts. 

This  is  not  a  history  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  is  not  a  treatise  on  leciprocity  or  annexation.  It  is  not  even  an  adequate  de- 
scription of  the  lovely  province,  for  the  writer,  the  poet,  the  artist  has  yet  to  come  to  the  front  who  shall  ,lo  it  fidl  justice 
through  either  of  these  departments.  Let  these  few  lines  stand,  therefore,  simply  as  a  brief  and  modest  suggestion  upon  that 
most  absorbing  of  all  the  t(>pics  of  modern  life  —  the  annual  vacation. 

"VACATION."  \\  hat  a  world  of  meaning  is  wrapped  up  in  tliat  one  t'amiliar,  simple  word!  As  inseparable  a  part  of 
our  present  existence  as  the  very  work  from  which  it  brings  surcease,  the  spending  of  our  annual  vacation  has  come  to  be 
almost  a  science  in  itself,  and  days  and  weeks  are  spent  in  the  attempt  to  figure  out  the  complicated  problem  of  where  the 
"best  time"  can  be  spent  amid  the  newest  and  most  pleasant  of  surroundings,  with  the  slightest  expenditure  of  time  —  and 
cash.  With  the  modern  American  there  is  no  question  as  to  the  vacation  itself.  It  must  be  had,  whatever  the  cost  to  him  or 
the  discurangement  of  his  business  affairs,  and  the  year  that  finds  no  vacation  chronicled  in  his  diary  is  a  year  that  is  to  be 
counted  h>st,  indeed.  The  man  and  his  family  who  dwell  in  the  city  have  got  to  go  away  to  some  place  that  bears  some  sem- 
blance, at  least,  to  the  countr\ ,  for  a  week  or  a  month,  and  the  tendency  is  to  lengthen  this  period  of  annual  rest  rather  than 
shorten  it. 

But  where  to  go  ?         '  '  i,  '  ' 


T 


That  is  the  most  important  part  of  the  question.  It  is  an  undeniable  fact  that  the  popular  vacation  resorts  of  this  country, 
numerous  and  beautiful  as  they  are,  are  yearly  becoming  more  and  more  passe,  and  the  great  American  public,  particularly 
that  portion  of  it  residing  within  the  borders  of  the  New  England  States,  is  becoming  more  and  more  restless  and  dissiitisfied, 
and  is  looking  around  eagerly  for  •'  greener  fields  and  pastures  new."  New  Hampshire  has  its  White  Mountains,  Maine  its 
woods  and  lakes,  \'ermont  its  green  hills  and  New  York  its  Saratoga  and  Catskills  and  Adirondacks;  but  all  these,  beautiful 
though  they  are,  are  old  and  oft-explored,  and  that  means  the  death  penalty  for  a  summer  resort  in  these  days  of  restless  activ- 
ity and  universal  desire  for  something  new. 

In  this  b''issed  land  of  ours  there  is  nothing  tliat  man  can  want  in  reason  that  is  not  ac  his  hand ;  and  so  it  is  in  this  emer- 
gency. Right  at  the  very  d<M)rs  of  New  England,  more  quickly  reached  than  many  a  point  in  its  own  territory,  a  bountiful 
Providence  has  placed  for  the  enjoyment  of  its  toil-worn  ]>eople  a  very  Garden  of  Eden,  which  can  never  grow  old  or  tame, 
where  there  is  room  and  hearty  welc<»me  for  all  who  can  possibly  wish  to  come,  and  where  the  New  Englander  who  once 
tarries  will  ever  leave  his  heart.  It  is  a  glorious  summer  garden,  this  rock-bound,  verdant,  beautiful,  romantic  province  by  the 
sea.  Several  hundred  years  have  rolled  by  since  this  magnificent  outpost  of  the  great  Canadian  Dominion  was  discovered,  but 
the  work  was  poorly  done,  and  it  is  but  recently  that  its  real  discovery  has  occurred.  Perhaps  it  would  not  have  been  dis- 
covered yet  had  not  the  Adirondacks  and  the  White  Mountains  come  to  be  such  an  old  story. 

Slowly  and  surely,  however,  the  fame  <,f  this  favored  section  as  a  health-giving,  restful,  inspiring  place  of  simimer  resort 
has  been  spreading  abroad,  and  the  annual  exv>dus  toward  its  shores  has  assumed  such  proportions  that  an  entire  revolution  in 
transportation  facilities  has  been  made  necessary  in  order  that  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  the  thousands  of  tourists  may  be 
properly  conserved.  Happily,  Nova  Scotia  itself  has  not  been  revolutionized,  however,  and  it  remains  to-day,  as  it  undoubt- 
edly will  for  years  to  come,  the  same  unique  and  picturesque  Bluenose  land.  Those  who  have  found  their  way  thither  have 
stopped  and  seen  and  marvelled  that  such  a  lovely,  romantic  and  historically  interesting  region  has  so  long  lain  undiscovered 
and  unexplored  by  the  pleasure- loving  Yankee;  and  their  wonder  las  deepened  into  profound  admiration  as  its  superb  natural 
beauties  and  thoroughly  local  characteristics  have  gradually  been  unfolded  to  them.  "  surely  there  can  be  on  earth  no  fairer 
spot  than  this !  "  they  have  exclaimed,  as  they  have  rambled  through  its  leafy  and  balsamic  forests,  sailed  upon  or  bathed  in  its 
pure  and  sparkling  waters,  fished  in  its  winding  rivers,  hunted  upon  its  breezy  marshes,  or  studied  the  numberless  and  varied 
industries  peculiar  to  the  countr}'  and  the  quaint  and  curious  characteristics  of  many  of  its  people.  Small  wonder  that  they 
thus  exclaimed!     Surely  the  poei  must  have  had  in  mind  this  beauty  spot,  when  in  reminiscent  mood  he  wrote: 


is  country, 
articularly 
issiitisfied, 
Maine  its 
,  beautiful 
tlcss  activ- 

this  emer- 
\  bountiful 
d  or  tame, 

who  once 
ncc  by  the 
)vered,  but 

been  dis- 

nier  resort 
ohition  in 
its  may  be 

undoubt- 
ither  have 
iiscovered 
rb  natural 
1  no  fairer 
thed  in  its 
ind  varied 

that  they 


With  favoring  wiiuls.  o'er  sunlit  seas. 
We  sailed  for  the  Hespe^ides. 
The  land  where  golden  apples  grow 
But  that,  ah  I  that  was  long  ago. 

There  are  three  great  features  about  a  vacation  in  Nova  Scotia  that  will  appeal  to  everybody,  aside  from  the  natural  attract- 
iveness of  the  place  itself.  It  is  quickly  and  comfortably  reached,  it  is  a  new  and  unique  country  when  you  get  to  it,  and  it  is  a 
very  inexpensive  place  to  live  in.  Fancy  Saratogian  prices  arc  not  yet  known  in  Nova  Scotia,  nor  are  they  likely  to  be  for 
sometime;  and  the  hospitality  for  which  Nova  Scotians  have  always  been  famous,  particularly  when  their  visiting  Yankee 
cousins  were  concerned,  has  not  yet  become  part  of  the  stock  in  trade  of  Nova  Scotia  commerce.  This  being  the  case,  you 
„  can  spend  a  week  at  one  of  their  hotels  without  having  to  contribute  enough  to  erect  a  new  building,  and  you  can  safely  enter 
1  into  negotiations  with  a  livery  keeper  without  the  fear  of  being  obliged  to  pay  the  price  of  the  entire  tmiiout. 

But  ai>out  the  getting  there. 

Nothing  easier  in  the  world.  The  only  problem  is  where  to  make  your  headquarters  when  you  reach  there.  There  are 
eighteen  counties  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  there  are  an  average  of  at  least  twenty-five  towns  or  villages  in 
each  that  vie  witli  each  other  in  presenting  the  greatest  number  of  attractions  to  vacationists ;  so  that,  if  a  man  or  woman  took 
twenty-five  vacations  a  year  there  are  enough  places  in  the  province  to  last  them  at  least  eighteen  years.  As  most  of  us  have 
onlv  one  vacation  annually,  however,  it  is  plainly  seen  that  none  of  us  will  have  to  worry  about  where  to  enjoy  it,  if  we  live 
to  be  centenarians.  There  are  thousands  now  who  are  trying  to  make  the  best  record  in  this  respect,  aiul  many  of  them  have 
been  keeping  it  up  for  years;  for  the  rule  is  that  once  a  vacationi.st  there,  always  a  vacationist. 

The  manner  in  which  one  shall  spend  a  vacation  in  the  Lanil  of  Evangeline  is,  of  course,  dependent  altogether  upon  the 
length  of  time  given  to  it,  as  in  all  other  places.  If  one  is  not  hampered  in  this  respect,  a  good  plan  is  to  spend  a  few  weeks 
in  leisurely  travel  through  the  province,  in  this  way  getting  a  comprehensive  idea  of  its  topography,  and  the  characteristics 
and  occupations  of  the  thrifty  people  who  itdiabit  its  different  sections.  One  will  find  many  interesting  contrasts  in  both  these 
respects,  and  not  «  few  genuine  surprises-  Then  the  traveler  can  settle  down  for  a  few  days  or  weeks  in  some  chosen  spot 
that  has  particularly  struck  his  fancy,  and  gain  the  recuperative  rest  that  ought  to  form  the  first  principle  of  a  vacation,  vary- 
ing the  programme  from  year  to  year,  to  suit  one's  self.     If  the  intending  tourist  has  a  friend  who   has  lived  in  or  visited  the 

5 


m 


ii 

^1 


'  t 


l)lace,  tiio  wiiole  thinji  can  he  settled  in  a  iniiuite.     Failing  in  that,  tlie  ^'.\KMo^  i  ii  Sri: amsiiii-  C()MI'A\\  's  hurean  of  inform- 
ation can  \\  iv  successfully  take  the  jilaco  (f  the  ••  friend  in  need"  and  he  most  happv  to  do  so. 

H  ow    TO    ' '  o  1  :t    Tin  -:  km  -: . " 

Nothing  aside  from  the  usual  \acation  preparations  need  he  made,  when  tin-  decision  to  <4()  lias  heen  arrived  at.  The 
climate  of  Nova  Scotia  is  not  essentially  different  from  that  of  New  I'2n<jland,  in  summer,  except  that  the  nights  have  a  ten- 
dency to  he  cooler,  and  that  the  east  winds  are  not  so  cruel  an»l  penetrating.  .Stout  shoes  for  heach  walking  and  hill  climhing 
shoidd  he  taken,  and  dress  suits  mav  he  left  in  camphor,  at  home,  unless  you  intend  to  attend  one  of  the  fashionahle  levees -of 
the  lieutenant  go\ernor.  or  invite  xourself  to  one  of  the  achniraitv  l>alls  at  Halifax.  I'ogs  are  kept  on  hand  on  some  ])arts  of 
the  coast,  for  the  purjiose  of  heautifying  the  complexion,  hut  they  are  no  wor.se  and  no  more  numerous  than  New  ICngland 
fogs  —  not  half  so  nuich,  in  fact,  as  some  people  ha\e  been  taught  to  heliexe.  Nf)  sleep  need  he  lost,  either,  on  a'coimt  of  that 
terrihle  ogre,  the  customs  officer.  They  are  not  half  so  much  to  he  feared  as  the  haggage  man  to  whom  you  will  have  to  en- 
trust your  trunks  in  Boston.  You  can  change  your  money  into  Canadian  currencx  heCore  you  start  if  you  want  to,  hut  il"  you 
forget,  there  are  a  number  of  places  in  the  province,  notabh  Yarmouth.  \\  iuri'  vou  can  get  it  exchanged  at  ])ar.  'I'his  is  one 
result  of  the  close  relationship  that  is  growing  between  the  two  countries. 

The  most  imp()rtant  preparation  of  all  has  yet  to  he  mentioned,  that  ol  puichasing  xour  ticket  at  one  of  the  mmierous 
agencies  of  the  ^  armoi  i  h  Stkamshii'  Comi'WV  (a  list  of  which  is  gi\en  further  on),  and  securing  \our  stateroom.  If 
the  "  seascm"  is  well  on,  you  will  he  wise  to  do  the  latter  as  early  as  possible,  for  while  the  splendid  steamers  of  the  line  are 
as  commodious  as  thc\  are  comfortable  and  speetly.  they  ha\e  a  limit  w  hich  is  bound  to  be  reached  sonv  time.  Perhaps  a 
wortl  about  these  steamers,  w  hich  iiave  been  termed  '*  the  queens  of  the  Hoston  fleet,"  mav  not  be  amiss  right  here.  TheN 
are  two  in  number,  and  are  very  a])propriately  named  after  the  two  ports  which  form  their  terminii.  Thev  have  become  .so 
famous  now  that  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  describe  them.  I'he  contiast  between  them  and  the  steamers  that  plied  between 
the  two  sections  previous  to  their  advent  is  almost  startling.  The  largest  of  the  two,  the  "  Moston,"  is  a  steel  Civde-huilt  boat, 
am'  this  is  only  her  second  season.  She  is  ^45  feet  keel,  35  feet  beam  with  hold  7J^  feet  and  I2j^  feet,  and  has  expansion 
engine  of  4CXX)  nominal  horse  power,  two  boilers  and  smoke  stacks  and  a  guaranteed  speed  of  1 7  knots.  Bilge  keels  and  all  other 
modern  improvement.s  have  been  supplied.     There  are  over  So  staterooms,  and  the  total   passenger  accommodation  is  from 

6 


11  ot  iiiform- 


f(l  ;it.  Vhv 
i  lia\i'  a  tcn- 
lill  clinihiiifj 
ble  levees  of 
)inL'  |)arts  of 
e\v  iMvylaiul 
loiiiit  of  that 
!  have  to  en- 
>,  hilt  if  you 
I'liis  is  one 

f  numerous 
tirooin.  If 
the  line  are 

Perhaps  a 

leie.     Thev 

hecoine  so 

ied  between 

built  boat, 
s  expansion 
nd  all  other 
tion  is  from 


Yarmouth. 


,^ 


HI 


i-~ 


9' 


350  to  400.  The  (lininji;  saloon  is  forward  extending  right  across  tlie  ship,  and  is  handsomely  furnished.  In  addition  there  is 
a  saloon  aft  on  tiie  same  deck,  and  a  gentlemen's  smoking  room  and  a  ladies'  social  hall  on  the  upper  deck.  There  are  five 
water-tight  compartments.  The  cabins,  saloons,  staterooms,  etc.,  are  furnished  in  mahogan\  and  maple,  and  upholstered 
ii\  Utrecht  velvet.     The  ship  is  lighted  by  electricity,  as  in  her  companion,  and  each  has  an  unexcelled  culinary  department. 

The  "  Yarmouth,"  though  somewhat  smaller  than  the  "  Boston,"  is  not  in  the  least  behind  her  in  respect  to  accommoda- 
tions and  "  modern  con\eniences."  She  is  also  a  Clyde-built  boat,  and  during  her  several  seasons  on  the  route  has  become 
immensely  popular.  She  registers  1400  tons,  and  is  very  speedy.  Both  steamers  are  in  charge  of  experienced  and  well-known 
captains,  and  the  courteous  oHicers  and  crews  are  picked  men,  whose  first  duty  is  the  welfare  of  their  passengers.  "  Safety, 
speed  and  comfort,"  is  the  motto  of  the  Y ahmoutii  Stkamsiiii'  Comi-anv,  and  altogether  its  steamers  are  conceded  to  be 
the  Hnest  of  the  coastwise  Heet  running  out  of  lioston. 

Better  than  all,  however,  this  line  is  the  quickest  by  many  hours  to  Nova  Scotia,  and,  almost  before  he  has  realized  he  is 
at  sea,  the  passenger  is  landed  upon  the  shores  of  the  picturescjue  province.  . 

And  that  brings  us  back  to  that  vacation  again. 

Having  come  from  the  suburbs  of  l^oston.  New  ^  ork.  Western  Massachusetts,  or  "'way  down  in  Maine,"  as  the  case 
may  be,  the  intending  vacationist  finds  himself  at  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston,  as  much  before  the  hour  of  the  steamer's  sailing,  as 
his  railroad  oi'  street  car  connections  ha\  e  allowed.  Promptly  on  the  hour  the  boat  leaves  her  dock,  bearing  a  happy  and  ex- 
pectant throng  on  her  deck,  and  lea\  ing  a  wistful  and  en\  ious  one  on  the  wharf.  Almost  before  she  has  got  beyond  hailing 
distance  "  full  speed"  is  put  on,  not  to  be  relaxed  again  until  all  l>ut  four  or  live  of  the  250  miles  of  watery  pathway  have  been 
covered.  The  varied  panorama  of  Boston  harbor,  with  its  steam  and  sail  crall.  its  islands  and  forts  and  public  institutions,  is 
i  rapidly  passed,  Boston  Light  and  the  gilded  dome  are  bidden  an  affectionate  good-by,  and  with  her  log-line  and  black  cloud  of 
smoke  trailing  after  her,  the  good  steamer  ploughs  her  rapid  way  toward  the  Bluenose  land,  which  is  to  be  reached  at  (la\  - 
light  next  morning,  onl}  sixteen  hours  from  Boston.  Dinner,  an  afternoon  siesta,  reading  or  chatting  with  companions  or 
new-made  friends,  a  lazy  and  restful  scanning  of  the  ocean  with  its  scattered  white  sails;  then  supper,  followed,  perhaps,  by 
[music  in  the  cabin,  another  lounge  on  deck,  with  eyes  already  brighter,  drinking  in  the  fairy  picture  presented  by  the  dancing 
[lights  of  the  haddock  fishermen  circling  around  their  vessel  in  their  dories,  serve  to  wind  up  the  afternoon  and  evening.  Then 
comes  sweet  sleep,  if  you  are  one  of  those  who  can  sleep  upon  the  water,  a  few  more  thousand  re\olutions  of  the  ponderous 
engines,  and  then  daylight  again  — and  Nova  Scotia  1 

7  ;  '••■■'•  ■  .,'''■■'  \  \  :':■■ 


Tin:      COTINTKV      iTSBI^b 


And  what  is  Nova  Scotia?  ■•  Win,  il  is  the  iciiul  of  Evanjjeline,  to  be  sure,"  replies  the  knowing  American  making  liis 
first  visit  to  the  coimtry,  at  whose  rugged  gate  we  now  stand,  as  tiiough  I'^vangeHne  and  her  sad  story  and  the  history  of  the 
unhappy  Acadians  were  the  Alpha  an<l  Omega  ot"  Nova  Scotia.  There  is  something  more  than  that  to  give  to  the  province 
its  individualitv,  however,  i  .lolds  a  place  in  liistory  and  in  tlie  great  family  of  countries  beside  which  that  of  the  poet''- 
creation  is  but  a  single  circumstance. 

To  sum  it  up  briefly,  the  expectant  tourist  is  entering  a  province  of  the  Canadian  Dominion — a  foreign  country,  if  thi 
term  seems  more  romantic  to  him  —  made  up  of  a  rock-bound  peninsula,  within  whose  21,731  square  miles  of  territors  are 
stored  rich  samples  of  nearly  all  the  natural  beauty,  mineral  and  agricultural  riches  and  industrial  enterprises  of  the  North 
American  continent.  Nature  was  in  a  \ery  prodigal  moo<l  when  she  endowed  Nova  Scotia,  and  seems  to  have  shared  with  it 
the  best  of  all  her  possessions  This  great  peninsula,  standing  out  in  sentinel-like  attitude  in  the  restless  Atlantic,  is  300  miles 
in  length  and  ux)  miles  in  extreme  breadth.  This  includes  the  island  of  Cape  Mreton,  at  the  north,  separated  from  tho 
peninsula  proper  by  the  strait  of  Canso.  If  you  are  a  tarmer,  and  like  to  tigiire  by  acres,  there  are  over  13,000,000  in  the 
province,  about  6,000,000  of  which  are  under  tillage.  The  country  is  threaded  by  winding  rivers  and  sparkling  lakes,  where  tisli 
of  various  kinds  come  to  the  surface  and  make  plaintive  appeals  for  some  one  to  come  and  catch  them.  In  fact,  nearly  one-fifth 
of  the  area  is  water,  which  may  account  for  the  remarkable  fertility  of  the  country.  The  province  is  famed  for  its  rich  farms, 
its  prolific  orchards  and  immense  lumber  tracts.  It  is  essentially  an  agricultural  country,  but  those  who  expect  to  find  simplv 
a  repetition  of  New  Hampshire  or  Vermont  life  will  be  pleasantly  disappointed.      Nova  Scotia  is  unique,  even  in  its  farms. 

While  there  are  no  elevations  really  entitle<l  to  the  name  of  mountains,  the  land  Munetimes  takes  a  very  ambitious  turn 
and  uprears  itself  to  a  height  of  600  or  a  thousitnd  feet,  so  that  there  is  never  any  monotony  to  the  scenery,  and  once  in  a 
while  there  is  something  akin  to  grandeur.  It  is  one  of  these  belts  of  hills  that  serves  to  protect  the  province  from  the  cold 
north  winds,  and  the  near  presence  of  that  great  public  system  of  hot  water  heating,  the  Gulf  Stream,  is  another  factor  in 
making  the  climate  of  Nova  Scotia  more  equable  than  that  of  any  other  part  of  Canada.  It  is  one  of  the  most  healthy  climates 
in  the  world,  has  fewer  medical  men  in  proportion  to  the  population  than  an\  other  part  of  the  continent,  and  is  noted  for  the 
longevity  ot  its  inhabitants.  In  the  official  health  returns  from  the  British  military  stations,  Nova  Scotia  ranks  in  the  first 
class.  In' most  parts  of  the  province,  in  summer,  the  mercury  seldom  gets  above  80"^  in  the  shide,  and  70''  is  accounted  prettv 
warm  in  many  places.  ^ 


n  making  liis 

liistory  of  thi 

the  province 

of  the  pi)et'>- 

)nntrv.  if  thi 
territorv  an 
of  the  North 
liared  with  ii 
,  is  300  mih  - 
ted  from  tin 
:x),ooo  in  tin 
■s,  where  Hsli 
arly  one-fiftli 
s  rich  farms. 
»  find  simph 
its  farms, 
iibitious  turn 
nd  once  in  a 
rom  tlie  cold 
her  factor  in 
Ithy  ch'mates 
loted  for  the 
s  in  the  first 
anted  pretty 


DiGBY. 


When  it  conies  to  u  question  of  what  is  to  be  iiad  in  the  way  of  Hshing  and  shooting  —  very  important  features  of  a  vaca- 
Jon  place  —  the  quickest  and  best  answer  is  —  everything.  Transportation,  too,  is  as  easy  and  comfortable  as  anywhere, 
['here  was  a  time,  not  very  long  ago,  too,  when  communication  was  principally  by  stage  coach,  a  la  the  wild  West;  but  to- 
lay  the  province  is  intersected  by  a  half  dozen  well  equipped  railroads,  bringing  nearly  every  part  within  reach,  and  these  are 
lupplemented  by  nearly  twice  as  many  coastwise  steamship  lines,  so  that  one  can  get  almost  anywhere  in  a  day.  An  order  to 
]>uy  or  sell  stocks  in  Boston  or  New  York,  can  be  telegraphed  from  almost  every  point,  unless,  perhaps,  you  are  in  the  woods 
|ifter  moose  or  caribou,  and  the  mail  service  is  excellent.     No,  Nova  Scotia  is  not  exactly  a  howling  wilderness. 

The  inhabitants,  who  number  450,000,  and  are  of  English,  Scotch,  Irish,  German  and  French  descent,  with  a  few 
^housand  colored  people  and  Indians,  are  an  exceedingly  intelligent  and  hospitable  people,  and  reasonably  progressive.  They 
bupport  their  religious  institutions  with  an  enthusiasm  that  speaks  volumes  for  their  integrity  and  uprightness,  and  educate 
Iheir  children  in  free  schools  that  are  supported  partly  by  the  public  and  partly  by  local  taxation.  In  commerce  they  cut  a 
lost  important  figure,  the  exports  of  fish,  coal,  lumber,  agricultural  products  and  other  commodities  aggregating  nearly 
>io,ooo,ooo  annually.  A  very  large  proportion  of  this  trade  is  with  the  United  States,  where  thousands  of  Nova  Scotians 
liave  gone  to  live,  so  that  the  tie  that  binds  the  two  sections  together  is  a  doubly  strong  one.  An  immense  amount  of  shipping 
is  owned  in  the  province,  its  vessels  doing  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  carrying  trade  of  the  world.  There  are  iron,  cotton, 
sugar  refining  and  other  manufactures  at  some  of  the  larger  centres,  but  these  are,  perhaps,  not  exactly  germane  to  a  summer 
vacation. 

The  Yankee  tourist  will  find  the  conditions  of  government  somewhat  different  when  he  gets  under  the  union  jack  than  in 
his  own  country.  The  province  is  governed  partly  by  the  general  l.iws  of  the  Dominion  of  which  it  forms  a  part,  and  partly 
Joy  local  laws  enactod  by  its  own  Provincial  Legislature.  This  body  sits  at  Halifax,  the  capital  city,  and  consists  of  a  Legis- 
lative Council,  or  upper  house,  and  a  House  of  Assembly,  or  lower  house.  The  head  of  affairs  of  the  province  is  the  lieuten- 
ant-governor, who  is  appointed  by  the  Governor  General  of  Canada,  representing  the  Queen,  and  has  an  advisory  Executive 
Council  to  assist  him. 

The  history  of  Nova  Scotia,  "boiled  down"  for  vacation  purposes,  is  something  like  this:  The  province  was  visited  by 
tlie  Norsemen,  who  evidently  didn't  know  a  good  thing  when  they  saw  it,  in  the  eleventh  century,  and  who  left  it  to  be  redis- 
covered by  Sebastian  Cabot  in  1498.  In  15 18  the  Fvench  attempted  to  colonize  the  country,  as  did  the  Portuguese  in  1520 
and  1530,  when  Joan  Alvarez  Fagundez,  with  a  roval  commission  and  two  ships  sailed  with  colonists  to  Cape  Breton.     The 


1^' 


Portuguese  n'cie  largely  unsuccessful  in  thcii  attempts  at  coloni/atiou.  The  great  hay  lietweeu  Nova  Scotia  aiwl  New  Hruiis- 
wick  the\  called  Hay  I'oudo,  from  which  i^  .lerived  its  present  name,  the  May  of  Fundy.  In  1^105  tlie  first  successful  settle- 
ment was  made  hv  Champiain  at  I'ort  Koyal.  In  loji  the  territory  of  Acadie.  named  hy  the  ICnglish  Nova  Scotia,  wa- 
granted  h\  Sir  William  Alexander.  In  i6^j  the  conntrv  reverted  to  I'rancc,  hut  Mngiantl  again  ca|>ture«l  it  in  1^154.  New 
Knglandcrs  .ook  it  in  1690.  Seven  years  later  it  was  restored  to  I'rance.  Massachusetts  recaptiued  it  in  1710.  Finally,  ii 
1 713,  the  country  was  ceded  to  England,  hy  the  treats  of  I'trecht.  I'ort\-two  \e<irs  later,  in  1755,  occurred  the  expulsion  oi 
the  Acadians.  upon  \\  hich  the  poetic  changes  have  heen  so  often  rung.  In  1.S67  the  province  entered  into  the  Dominion  con- 
federation, and  is  there  to-day.     .So  much  for  the  histor\  of  Nova  .Scotia,  and  several  other  things  comiected  with  it. 

A.  I      K  A  MO  I  :s     \'  A  K  \  I  ( )  J :  T 1 1 . 

.Ml  this  time  tiie  eager  steamer  and  its  impatient  passengers  ha\f  heen  <lrawing  nearer  the  rockv  and  forbidding  wall  tha' 
stretches  out  to  the  right  and  left,  with  nothing  saxe  a  few  ragged  i>letN  and  a  light-houM-  clad  in  perpendicular  stripes  t<»  re- 
lieve it.  It  seems  as  though  there  were  no  opening  there  at  all.  Imt  at  last  it  appears,  and  the  steamer,  slowing  down  gradualh 
as  it  draws  nearer  to  the  entrance,  finally  sweeps  into  the  long  and  .serpentine  chaimel  that  ends  its  tortuous  cour.se  just  wheri 
the  still  sleeping  city  of  ^'armouth  begins.  In  a  moment  the  staunch  ocean  greyhoimd  is  at  her  dock,  the  lines  are  ma<K 
fast,  the  250  miles'  journey  is  safely  ended,  and  the  travelers  are  ready  to  set  loot  u|)on  British  soil.  Some  of  them  arc  goin;: 
through  to  other  points  in  the  train  that  is  already  waiting  for  them  alongside  the  steamer,  and  some  are  to  make  \'armoutli 
llieir  stop|)ing  place,  for  a  time,  at  least.  With  these  we  shall  linger  for  a  moment,  for  thev  mav  need  a  little  expert  advice. 
They  have  come  to  an  ideal  i)lace  to  spend  their  vacation,  and  one  of  the  hest  known  and  most  popular  of  the  many  iii 
the  province.  Partly  tVom  its  close  relationsiiip  svitli  the  I'nited  .States,  and  parth  from  the  fact  that  its  original  settler- 
numbered  many  hardy  New  Fnglanders.  the  place  has  come  to  attain  the  distinction  of  being  the  most  .\merican  of  ai: 
Canadian  cities.  I'p  to  date  there  has  been  no  mass  meeting  of  the  citizens  to  protest  against  this  characterization.  Tin 
place  presents  a  strange  admixtme  of  .Xmcrican  enterprise  ami  aristocratic  ease.  Tlu-  shipping  indiistrx  of  Yarmouth,  famoii- 
the  world  over,  has  brought  many  a  good  fortune  to  the  men  who  ha\e  invested  in  it.  and  its  results  are  seen  in  scores  o- 
magnificent  residences  and  estates,  beautiiul  gardens,  conservatories  and  picturesque  English  hedgerows  such  as  no  other  por- 
tion of  the  broad  Dominion  cm  du|)licate.  The  visitor  who  is  fortimate  enough  to  have  the  entrrr  to  one  or  more  of  thcsi 
places  will  never  be  able  to  efface  his  tii'st  impressions  of  ^'armouth. 


lllli 


I  Xew  liruiiv- 
;cssful  settlf- 
I  Scotia,  wa- 
i6^^.  Nfw 
Finally,  ii 
'  expulsion  <>: 
oniinioii  con- 
I  it. 


liii*,'  wall  tha' 
stripes  to  ri- 
>\vii  ;;ra(iiiallv 
se  just  when 
nes  arc  Diadi 
em  arc  j^oiii;; 
<c  ^  arinoufli 
)i|)crt  ailvict . 
the  many  in 
f^inal  settler 
erican  of  ai 
/.ation.  riu 
oiith.  fanioii- 
I  in  scores  <>' 
in  other  por- 
lore  of  thc-i 


On  the  Annapolis  Basin, 


\\l 


4 


"Asa  summer  resort,"  says  Bishop  William  Stevens  Perry,  who  visited  the  place  a  couple  of  vears  ago,  "Yarmouth 
jiDssesses  every  possible  attraction.  The  sea  air  is  full  of  life,  invigorating,  bracing,  and  '  saltv '  even  to  the  taste.  The  view 
of  old  ocean  cannot  be  excelled.  The  drives,  the  walks,  the  baths  are  each  and  all  of  the  best.  Charmiu .;,  comfortable 
houses  are  scattered  over  the  various  ridges  along  either  side  of  the  '  Cloven  Cape,'  and  for  beautiful  homes,  attn*  tive  scenerv, 
and  delightful  people,  the  Gate  City  of  the  province  of  Nova  Scotia  stands  pre-eminent.  The  gate  of  Nova  S-  "lia  opens  to 
one  all  possible  pleasures  of  the  forest,  the  lake,  the  river  and  the  sea." 

Thrift  and  decorum  characterize  the  people  themselves,  their  homes  are  all  tasteful  antl  their  stores  neatly  kept;  churches 

te  numerous,  and  there  iij  no  poverty  in  the  place.     E\eu  the  common  laboring  men  own  their  own  little  homes.     A  visit 
!re  might  give  Henry  George  or  Edward  Bellamy  some  new  ideas  on  the  solution  of  the  vexed  social  problem,     The  tow;i 
k  large  and  prosperous,  containing  some  8,of}0  inhabitants,  and  has  an  electric  lighting  system,  several  public  halls,  and  other 
#iodern  conveniences.     The  fact  that  it  is  the  Nova  Scotian  terminus  of  the  Yarmouth  Steamshii'  Company  is  one  thing 
lat  assures  its  future  prosperity.     The  beautiful  residence  of  Hon.  L.  E.  Baker,  the  president  of  the  company,  is  one  of  the 
eatures  of  the  place,  and  its  doors  are  always  hospitably  open  to  visitors  from  "  the  States." 

The  hotel  accommodations  of  Yarmouth  are  fair,  but  they  are  soon  to  become  imexceptionable,  and  another  season  will 
kobably  see  a  Hne  smnmer  hostjhy  erected.  The  climate  during  the  vacation  months  is  salubrious,  the  normal  temperature 
^eing  7°  '"  75  (••  gices,  and  tb.e  place  is  almost  entireh  free  from  fevers.  Phe  countr\  is  level,  affording  magnificent  drives 
all  directions,  and  there  ;(re  abundant  opportunities  for  salt  water  bathing  and  fishing  not  far  from  the  town  itself. 

Some  idea  of  the  o^jportimities  foi"  fresii  water  'shing  may  be  gained  trom  the  knowledge  that  there  are  at  least  250  lakes 

In  Yarmouth  county.     Many  of  these   are   feeders    a  the    Tusket  river,  a   famous   stream  which   finds  its  source  away  in  the 

Juierior  and  empties  into  the  Atlantic,  at  a   point  where    hundreds   of  picturesque    little    islands  are   located.     The  river  itself 

♦ffords  splendid  trout  and  salmon  fishing,  while  the  islands  form  verv  fine  liead([uarters  for  wild  fowl   shooting  in  the  fall  and 

Ji^'inter.      I'here  are  some  who  contend  that  the   N'ortiimen   visited    the    Tusket    Islands,  and   certain    pecidiarly  marked  stones 

lave  been  found  there  which  seem  to  give  color  to  this  supposition.      The  Tusket  Lakes  are  veritable  beauty  spots,  where  one 

tan  forget  the  cares  of  the  outside  world  if  he  can   anywhere,  and,  altogether,  Yarmouth   and   its   surroimding  country  form  a 

inique  and  picturesque  section  that  must  by  no  means  lie  passed  by,  no  matter   how  anxious  the   tourist  may  be  to  get  to  the 

:rrander  beauties  beyond. 

On  trying  to  leave  Yarmouth  for  the  interior  of  the  province,  the   tra\cler  finds  himself  at  a  cross-roads,  so  to  .speak,  for 


he  can  take  l1i^^  choice  of  going  to  Halifax  l)v  wa\-  of  the  south  sliore  and  its  steamer  Hues  ami  stage  coaches,  or  via  Digby  and 
the  Annapolis  vallev  on  the  other  side  of  the  province,  by  rail.  The  local  steamers  of  uie  Yakmoutii  Stkamsuip  C''oMl'A^'^ 
will  take  him  by  the  fonne\  route,  allowing  him  to  touch  at  Shelburne.  Lockport,  Liverpool,  Lunenburg,  and  other  interest- 
ing points  en  route;  but  perhaps  it  will  serve  as  well  to  reverse  the  route  and  visit  these  places  on  the  way  back. 

This  much  decided,  it  onlv  remains  to  bid  our  kind  Yarmouth  friends  gooj-by,  board  the  waiting  train,  which  some  imi- 
tative genius  has  nanie<l  the  ■'  Flving  Bluenose,"  and  start  on  the  railroad  journey  to  the  beautiful  region  beyond.  This  train 
is  another  surprise,  in  its  way,  for  nothing  like  it  has  ever  been  seen  in  this  province  until  the  past  season.  Not  only  has  it 
splendid  new  passenger  coaches,  but  an  elegant  buffet  parlor  car,  in  which  one  can  ride  with  the  utmost  comfort  from  Yar- 
mouth right  through  to  Halifax,  220  miles  awav.  The  combined  enterprise  of  the  Windsor  tS:  Annapolis  and  Western 
Counties  railways  is  what  has  biought  about  this  great  and  much  api)rcciated  cmnenience. 

It  is  over  the  rails  of  the  last  named  line  that  we  now  speed,  and  our  regret  that  the  road  does  not  run  around  tlie  pictur- 
esque shore  of  St.  Mark's  Bav,  instead  of  cutting  through  the  semi-wilderness  in  its  eagerness  to  "  get  there,"  as  it  does,  is  no 
doubt  shared  by  the  mai'agement  of  the  line  itself.  However,  it  can  show  a  stretch  of  scenery  later  on  that  can  send  even  St. 
Mary's  Bay  into  the  shade;  and,  after  all.  there  is  much  that  is  interesting  in  the  long  stretches  of  woodland,  broken  here  and 
there  by  lakes  and  rivers,  saw-mills  and  lumber  vards.  and  the  little  stations  with  their  French  names  and  imdeniably  French 
congregations  that  we  H)  past. 

Before  we  reach  this  "wilderness,"  howexer,  there  is  much  of  civilizrition  to  be  seen,  for  Yarmouth  doesn't  come  to  an 
abrupt  ending,  by  any  means.  Five  miles  out,  after  passing  a  most  charming  succession  of  lakelets,  is  Hebron,  a  very  prett\ 
little  settlement,  and  two  miles  further  on  is  Ohio,  a  town  of  about  the  same  si/.e.  Both  arc  very  picturesquely  locate<l. 
After  Brazil  Lake,  a  splendid  sheet  of  water,  the  next  important  station  is  Hectan.)oga,  where  the  "uj)"  and  "down"  traiir- 
generally  pass,  and  then  comes  Meteghan  and  Church  Point,  30  and  37  miles  away,  respectively,  bringing  us  right  into  the 
heart  of  the  interesting  French  settlements  of  the  Clap'  district.  These  .settlements  were  established  about  1763.  bv  the  de- 
scen  lents  of  the  exiled  Acadians,  who  had  lived  away  up  at  Grand  Pre,  and  tiiev  are  located  along  the  shore  of  St.  Mary  s 
Bay.  This  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  in  which  the  shad  and  mackerel  fairly  swarm  at  certain  times  of  the  year,  was  explored 
by  .Sieur  de  Monts,  in  1604,  on  which  occasion  a  priest  belonging  to  the  p./rty  was  lost,  and  had  to  exist  on  berries  in  the 
woods  for  over  two  weeks.  It  was  named  Baie  de  Ste.  Marie  by  Champlain.  The  I'rench  people  here  retain  many  of  their 
primitive  customs,  and  are  a  very  thrifty  class  of  people.      Fishing  forms  an  important   feature  in  their  e\eryday  life,  and  tlic 


I 


i  Digby  and 
r  Co^^I'AN^ 
lier  iiiterest- 


1  soniL-  imi- 

This  train 

t  onlx  has  it 

t  tVoni  Var- 

11(1   Western 

(1  tlie  pictui- 
t  does,  is  ni' 
etui  even  St. 
en  here  and 
i.nbly  Frencli 

t  come  to  an 
;i  \ery  prettv 
iicly  located, 
low  n  "  train- 
light  into  the 
13,  by  the  dt- 
if  St.  Mary  s 
was  explored 
berries  in  tlu 
iiany  of  their 
liff.  and  the 


I 


a 


i 


Old  House  at  Digby 


I . 


m 


long  weirs  stretching  out  into  the  shallow  waters  ol"  the  bay  give  an  indication  of  this.  There  is  a  new  college  at  Church 
Point,  St.  Anne's;  a  handsome  $50,000  church  at  Meteghan  (called  Stella  Maris),  and  other  important  religious  and  educa- 
tional institutions  throughout  the  section.  This  is  a  part  of  the  province  that  has  been  largely  neglected  by  the  tourists,  who 
have  been  always  hurried  through  from  Yarmouth  to  Digby,  as  though  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen  between  these  points. 
This  is  partly  due  to  the  unfortunate  neglect  of  the  railroad  to  affiliate  more  closely  with  the  settlements,  in  its  otherwise 
laudable  effort  to  get  to  a  given  point  in  the  shortest  period  of  time.  It  is  well  worthy  of  exploration,  and  one  of  the  most 
interesting  remixiiscences  of  the  place  is  the  career  of  the  famous  Abbe  Sigogne,  who  was  so  closely  identified  with  its  history. 
Passing  Belliveau,  another  one  of  the  numerous  stations  with  French  appellation,  the  pretty  little  town  of  Weymouth  is 
reached,  and  the  province  is  seen  in  still  another  aspect.  Weymouth  is  a  good-sized  town,  charmingly  located  on  the  banks 
of  the  Sissiboo  river,  which  empties  into  St.  Mary's  Bay,  a  short  distance  b'elow.  It  makes  a  wonderfully  pretty  picture  as 
the  train  crosses  the  long  and  high  bridge  that  spans  the  river.  The  sensation  during  the  latter  process  is  somewhat  akin  to 
that  felt  in  cossing  the  gorge  at  Niagara,  the  river  sweeping  away  grandly  to  the  left,  while  the  town,  with  its  new  vessels  on 
the  stocks  and  the  old  ones  at  the  wharves,  nestles  at  the  right.  The  country  begins  to  get  hilly  right  here,  but  there  is  a 
level  drive  along  the  river  bank  to  the  shore  of  the  bay  that  can  hardly  be  excelled  for  beauty  in  America.  When  one  takes 
this  drive  and  is  able  to  drink  in  the  whole  lovely  expanse  of  St.  Mary's,  the  beauty  of  Nova  Scotia  begins  to  dawn  upon  him 
very  emphatically.  There  are  two  hotels  at  Weymouth,  and  the  tourist  should  certainly  tarry  here  for  a  while,  if  he  has  the 
time. 

DiGBY,      THK      DELIGHTFUL. 

Just  now,  however,  the  "Flying  Bluenose "  does  not  wait  for  us,  but  hurries  us  on  at  regular  American  speed,  over 
another  23-mile  stretch  of  territory  that  gradually  leads  us  up  to  the  glorious  surprise  that  is  in  store  for  us.  After  we  have 
passed  Port  Gilbert,  North  Range,  and  Bloomfield,  we  become  conscious  of  an  entire  change  in  the  topography  of  the  country. 
Blue  hills  that  are  certainly  higher  than  anything  we  have  seen  yet,  appear  in  the  distjince,  the  country  grows  more  broken, 
and  before  we  realize  what  has  happened,  the  train  rumbles  over  another  high  bridge,  a  great,  l)road  sheet  of  blue  water  is 
spread  out  before  us,  with  verdant  heights  on  either  side,  and  we  are  in  Digby.  Could  we  have  entered  this  favored  town  — 
the  coming  Bar  Harbor  of  Canada  — by  the  highway  that  runs  to  the  top  of  the  high  hill  on  which  the  town  is  located,  and  then 
almost  tumbles  down  a  precipice,  we  would  have  beheld  a  scene  no  painter  of  this  age  could  ever  do  justice  to.  Standing 
four  or  five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  we  would  have  seen  spread  out  before  us  the  beauteous  20-mile  stretch  of 


>3 


— ^KJFi-  TTf-:^-  \- 


Annapolis  Basin  and  river,  with  historic  Annapolis  itself  nestling  almost  out  of  sight  in  the  misty  distance.  On  our  left  w  c 
would  have  seen  —  in  fact,  we  can  from  the  train  now  —  the  wonderful  Dighy  Gap,  through  whose  mile-wide  channel  tin 
waters  of  the  mighty  Bay  of  Fundy  rush  in  and  out  with  resistless  force,  as  the  tides  come  and  go ;  Mt.  Beaman,  rising 
majesticall)  on  the  one  side,  and  the  long  North  Mountain  range  running  for  miles  and  miles  until  it  loses  its  identity  in  far- 
away Cape  Blomidon,  on  the  other.  Then  to  the  right  of  the  beautiful  basin  we  behold  the  gently  sloping  side  of  the  South 
Mountain,  dotted  with  smiling  farms  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  begin  to  realize,  indee<l,  that  there  is  something  in  what 
we  have  been  told  concerning  Nova  Scotia. 

Digby  is  certainly  one  of  the  fairest  gems  in  the  crown  of  the  garden  province.  It  has  all  the  advantages  that  could  p()>- 
sibly  be  looked  for  in  a  watering-place.  It  is  eas}  of  access  —  within  20  hours  of  Boston  —  and  is  a  wonderfully  satisfyin;^ 
place  when  you  get  there.  Besides  the  transcendent  natural  beauty  of  its  surroundings,  it  has  the  pu;  est  of  air,  the  most  equ;i- 
ble  of  temperatures,  the  most  beautiful  of  drives  and  the  best  of  boating,  bathing  and  fishing  pri\ileges.  The  ozone  is  a 
tonic,  and  you  can  take  it  on  the  ground  Hoor,  or  at  an  altitude  of  500  feet,  just  as  you  will.  In  fact,  Digby  is  a  sort  of  combi- 
nation of  seashore  and  mountain  resort,  and  is  lapidly  becoming  one  of  the  most  popular  vacation  headquarters  in  the  Domin- 
ion. The  popidation  of  the  town  itself  is  quite  large,  and  the  people  are  awake  to  the  value  of  their  heritage.  There  arc 
already  half  a  dozen  small  hotels  and  family  boarding  houses,  with  plans  on  foot  for  a  big  one.  There  has  also  been  a  com- 
pany organized  for  the  purpose  of  building  summer  cottages,  which  can  bo  purchased  or  rented  for  a  ridiculously  small 
amount,  and  wiiich  are  doubtless  destined  to  be  very  popular. 

Digby  was  originally  settled  by  the  loyalist  refugees  from  New  York  and  New  England,  l)ut  their  descendants  do  not 
cherish  any  hard  feelings  against  their  Yankee  cousins,  albeit  they  did  have  some  little  difficulty  with  them  on  account  of  a 
certain  three-mile  fishing  limit  law;  so  nothing  need  be  feared  on  that  score.  The  people  keep  pretty  well  informed  on 
American  aflairs,  and  will  be  found  very  liospitable.  There  are  several  churches,  and  the  town  can  boast  of,  at  least,  some 
social  life.  Fishing  still  tonus  an  important  industry  of  the  place,  although  the  glory  of  the  once  famous  "  Digby  chicken  " 
has  largely  departed,  and  there  are  extensive  farms  in  the  surrounding  country.  The  points  of  interest  near  by  are  not  a  few . 
They  include  the  beautiful  Acacia  Valley,  to  the  south,  where  a  new  summer  hotel  has  been  erected ;  the  lighthouse  at  rock\ 
Point  Prim,  at  the  entrance  to  the  wonderful  Gap,  and  which  can  be  reached  in  the  pleasant  drive  of  an  hour  or  so;  a  drive 
to  Bear  River,  the  great  cherry-growing  centre  of  the  province,  some  five  or  six  miles  awav ;  a  short  railroad  jaunt  to 
Annapolis,  or  a  climb  to  the  top  of  Mount  Beaman,  where  a  magnificent  and  inspiring  view  of  the  country  around  can  be 


Hill! 


Oil  our  left  wr 
<le  channel  tin 
teaman,  rising; 
identity  in  far- 
J  of  the  South 
Jthing  in  wliat 

hat  could  p(is. 
iiily  satisfyinii 
the  most  eqiiji- 
he  ozone  is  a 
sort  of  conil)i- 
in  the  Domin- 
e.  There  arc 
o  been  a  coni- 
culously  small 

ndants  do  nof 
account  of  a 
informed  on 
«t  least,  somo 
?by  chicken  ' 
ire  not  a  few  . 
ouse  at  rock\ 
>r  so ;  a  dri\  c 
oad  jaunt  u> 
ound  can  In- 


I 


ad.     Among  the  longer  drives  that  can  be  taken  are  one  to  Weymouth,  23  miles  distant,  and  another  to  Digb)  Neck.    This  is 

i|  narrow  point  of  land  that  inns  from  tiie  bead  of  St.  Mary's  Bay,  on  the  opposite  side  from  that  on  which  the  journey  from 

a'armouth  was  made,  and,  including  Long  and  Brier  Islands,  which  are  virtually  a  part  of  it,  is  about  40  miles  in  length. 

Jl'he  most  important  settlements  on  this  Neck  are  Waterford,  12,  Centreville,  15,  Sandy  Cove,  20,  and  Westport,  40  miles 

rom  Digby.     These  are  all  quiet  little  fishing  settlements,  Centreville  being  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  side  of  the  Neck,  and 

«'ova  Scotian  maritime  life  can  be  studied  here  in  its  present  and  most  interesting  form.     There  is  a  hotel  at  Sandy  Cove, 

nd  a  daily  stage  runs  the  entire  distance.     The  Neck  averages  only  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width,  and  some  beautiful 

lews  can  be  had  from  it.     Sand  as  red  as  that  of  New  Jersey  forms  a  large  part  of  it,  and  it  contains  a  rich  store  of  minerals. 

lany  of  these  can  be  picked  up  on  the  shore  by  those  who  know  minerals  when  they  see  them,  and  thej'  include  jasper,  agate 

nd  amethyst.     Many  other  ways  of  spending  a  vacation  in  Digby  will  suggest  themselves,  and  the  man  01  woman  who  can- 

ot  find  some  enjoyment  out  of  a  stay  at  this  delightful  place  will  never  be  satisfied  with  a  \acation  this  side  of  the  heavenly 

ingdom.     Well  may  the  local  poet  sing: 

"  I'm  going  back  to  Uigljy, 

The  heat  is  growing  stronger, 
M  I'm  going  back  to  Digby, 

I  can  stay  here  no  longer. 

I  want  the  cooling  breezes 

With  ocean  perfumes  laden, 
My  heart  turns  back  to  Digby, 

And  I  must  go." 

Just  now,  however,  we  are  going  away  from  Digby,  regretfully,  of  course,  but  with  the  consoling  thought  that  there  are 
still  other  beauties  ahead  of  us,  and  that  we  can  return  again,  anyway.  Our  way  lies  along  the  southern  shore  of  Annapolis 
15asin,  blue  and  sparkling  in  the  summer  sunlight,  with  just  enough  sail-craft  moving  upon  its  surface  to  prove  that  it  is  a 
■reality  and  not  a  painting.  We  are  still  upon  the  rails  of  the  Western  Counties  road,  and  shall  be  for  the  next  20 
miles,  until  Annapolis  is  reached.  This  20-mile  stretch  comprises  the  new  extension  of  the  railway,  opened  in  1891,  after 
„Jiaving  been  talked  of  for  a  generation.  It  gives  for  the  first  time  unbroken  rail  connection  between  Yarmouth  and  Halifax 
;;'»nd  the  great  outside  world,  communication  having  formerly  been  by  steamer  across  the  Basin,  betw  een  Digby  and  Annapolis. 


m\ 


m 


It  is  not  extravagance  of  language  to  b;iy  tliat  a  more  nuigniticent  strctcli  of  lailwav  does  not  exist  in  the  Dominion  ol'  Canada, 
and,  brief  as  has  been  its  existence,  scores  of  writers  have  aheady  gone  into  raptures  over  it,  and  the  artists  and  photographer^ 
are  rapidly  getting  in  their  work.  It  fullv  and  triumphantly  redeems  the  railway  for  the  possible  lameness  of  its  territory 
between  Yannoutli  and  Weymouth. 

Several  bridges  that  have  the  honor  of  being  among  the  largest  and  highest  in  the  Dominion  span  the  deep  gorges  and  arc 
met  at  various  points;  and  the  train  also  speeds  through  immense  cuts  hewed  in  the  solid  rock.  The  view  toward  the  Hasii, 
as  the  journey  is  made  is  simply  sublime.  As  the  traii\  passes  over  the  long  bridges  at  Grand  and  Little  joggin  (a  nanu- 
that  typifies  "mitten"  in  the  Micmac  Indian  nomenclature),  a  magnificent  view  of  Digby  Gap  is  had  on  the  left,  and  an 
equally  inspiring  one  of  the  beautiful  Acacia  valley  on  the  right.  Over  ravines  and  through  farms  and  orchards,  past  cjuaint 
little  huts,  from  the  doorway  of  which  little  Indian  pajjpooses  and  their  stolid-looking  parents  peer  with  interest,  the  train 
rushes  on,  the  picture  ever  changing,  vet  ever  the  same  in  its  general  scope.  The  first  importuit  station,  after  leaving  Digby 
is  Hear  River,  one  of  the  most  delightfully  located  towns  in  tiie  province.  It  is  situated  among  the  picturesque  hills,  on  tlic 
banks  of  the  river  bearing  its  name,  and  has  a  population  of  r.ooo.  Cherries  grow  here  earlier  and  in  larger  quantities  than 
in  any  other  part  of  the  country,  and  the  exportation  of  these,  the  shipping  of  lumber  and  cordwood  to  the  United  States  and 
West  Indies,  and  the  l)uilding  of  vessels,  form  the  chief  occupatit)ns  of  the  people.  Gold  and  iron  are  foimd  in  the  \icinit\. 
A  ride  from  Digby  o\er  the  hills  to  Bear  Ri^er  is  one  of  the  best  appetizers  that  could  possiblv  be  recommeiuled,  Fhe  rail- 
way station  is  not  within  sight  of  the  town  itself,  and  the  train  crosses  tiie  river  at  its  widest  point,  and  in  full  sight  of  Bein 
Island,  at  its  entrance. 

The  next  station  of  importance  is  Clcmentsport,  another  prettv  village  among  tiie  hills,  where  iron  mining  and  smelting 
were  (mce  carried  on,  as  the  ruined  foundry  near  the  track  testifies.  From  Clcmentsport  it  is  a  pleasant  drive  to  Annapolis, 
if  one  should  stop  off  to  explore  it,  and  roads  also  lead  from  it  to  the  romantic  Blue  Mountain  district,  south,  and  the  upper 
Liverpool  lakes,  which  empty  into  the  Atlantic,  ,away  on  the  other  side  of  the  province.  A  vacation  journey  through  this 
region  would  be  a  delight  to  those  who  like  that  sort  of  thing. 

After  leaving  Clcmentsport,  the  Basin  loses  its  identity  in  the  yellow  waters  of  the  Annapolis  River,  wiiich  has  a  mouth 
proportionate  to  that  of  a  boa-constrictor.  Goat  Island,  which  figures  somewhat  conspicuously  in  the  early  history  of  the 
province,  but  which  bears  no  more  relationship  to  goats  than  Bear  Island  does  to  bears,  is  next  passed,  and  then  the  tourist  is 
given  his  first  glimpse  of  the  dykes  that  arc  such  a   prominent  characteristic  of  this  part  of  the  country.      For  several  miles  a 

i6 


n  ol'  Caiiaihi. 
ihot()graphci> 
f  its  territory 

Olives  and  ail- 
aid  llic  Ba'-ii. 
;^gin  (a  naiiu 
e  left,  and  an 
s.  past  (luaiiii 
rest,  the  train 
leaving  Digbv 

I  hills,  on  tin 
uantities  than 
ted  States  and 

II  the  vicinitx. 
;d,  The  rail- 
sight  of  Real 

and  smeltini; 

to  Annapolis. 

and  the  upper 

through  this 

lias  a  mouth 
history  of  the 

the  tourist  i- 
everal  miles  a 


I 


Kentville. 


Ill 


t 


t 


long  section  of  these,  keeping  back  the  river  from  the  level  meadows  is  followed,  and  sitting  in  your  chair  and  looking 
dreamily  out  ol"  the  car  window,  you  can  almost  imagine  yourself  in  Holland.  These  are  only  modest,  retiring  sort  of  dykes 
compared  with  those  to  be  seen  further  on,  however. 


Annapolis,    and    thk    Vallby. 

At  last,  at  last  we  are  in  Aimapolis.  Annapolis,  the  historic,  the  world-famed,  the  former  football  of  contending  races, 
ihe  gateway  to  the  glorious  valley  beyond  which  bears  its  name.  Founded  as  Port  Royal  in  1605  by  the  Frenchman,  Sieur 
de  Monts,    captured  in  1613  by  an  expedition  from  Virginia,  rebuilt  then,  only  to  be  again  captured  fifteen  years  later,  then 

ken  several  times  subsequently  by  the  English,  and  finally,  in  1716,  falling  for  good  into  the  hands  of  Great  Hritain  —  sucii, 
brief,   is  the  pyrotechnic  history  of  Annapolis.     In  1713  its  name  was  changed  to  Annapolis  Royal,  in  honor  of  Qiieen 

nne.  To-day  there  is  little  to  it  but  its  history.  The  old  fort  and  sally-port  and  ramparts  are  grass-grown  and  long  ago  in 
Uesuetude.  Within  it  still  stands  the  old  magazine,  with  the  names  of  hundreds  of  tourists  can  ed  or  written  upon  its  walls. 
J'hose  of  a  romantic  turn  of  mind  can  still  find  much  to  interest  them  in  these  relics  of  olden  times,  and  in  the  old  Rice  home- 
stead, 130  years  old,  which  stands  in  another  part  of  the  town.  Annapolis  itself  has  a  population  of  about  1,400,  and  is 
ehiefiy  noted  now  for  its  exportation  of  apples,  which  are  justly  famous  for  their  size  and  quality.  There  are  several  hotels  in 
the  place,  and  the  drives  are  many  and  delightful.  The  pretty  town  of  Granville,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  reached 
py  ferry,  and  is  worth  a  visit.  The  scenery  of  the  La  Qiiillc  river  is  charming.  Nothing  could  be  more  beautifid,  either, 
jhan  the  scene  from  the  site  of  the  fortress,  looking  toward  the  Basin.  There  are  ample  facilities  for  boating,  bathing  and 
iishing. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  up  to  within  a  comparatively  short  time,  Annapolis  has  been  regarded  as  the  real  threshold  of  the 
province,  and  very  few  tourists  have  been  aware  of  what  the  more  western  section  can  present  in  the  way  of  beauty  and  inter- 
est. They  have  even  slighted  delightful  Digby  itself,  on  this  account ;  but  things  are  a  little  different  now,  thanks  to  the 
better  transportation  facilities  and  the  good  offices  of  the  journalistic  envoys  from  "  the  States,"  who  have  found  their  way 
thither. 

#        In  leaving  Annapolis,  with  its  pleasant  people,  its  balmy  air  and  inspiring  associations,  we  bid  good-by  to  the  Western 
Ipounties  railway  and  place  ourselves  in  the  care  of  the  Windsor  &  Annapolis  railway  (they  don't  call  it  "railroad"  here). 

>7 


^^iin^. 


The  line  of  this  road  is  130  miles  long  and  runs  clear  through  to  Halifax,  after  traversing  the  70-niile  Annapolis  valley,  and 
being  tapped  by  two  or  three  connecting  lines.  If  we  are  through  passengers  from  Yarmouth,  however,  there  is  no  change 
of  cars,  for  the  "  Paying  Bluenose  "  simply  changes  engine  and  conductor,  and  rushes  right  ahead.  The  places  passed  in  thi> 
wonderfully  interesting  journey  can  only  be  briefly  referred  to  here.  The  Aimapolis  valley  itself,  while  perhaps  not  more 
beautiful  than  some  others  that  might  be  mentioned,  has  an  individuality  all  its  own.  It  is  one  of  the  richest  and  most  fertile 
farming  regions  on  the  continent,  irrigated  a  part  of  tJie  way  by  tiie  winding  Annapolis  River.  Beyond  all  things  else,  its 
most  prominent  and  enduring  feature  is  the  grand  North  Mountain  range  of  hills,  varying  from  500  to  700  feet  in  height,  that 
keep  unbroken  guard  over  it  from  its  beginning  to  its  end.  Rev.  Dr.  John  Clark,  one  of  the  favorite  poets  of  the  province, 
fitlv  described  this  great  panoramic  wall  of  green  and  black,  when  he  wrote: 

Oil,  mountain,  ran^in,"^  league  011  lea.nuf,  with  varying;  breadth  and  height. 

A  wides  read  majesty  by  day,  a  guardian  wall  by  nitjht. 

On  valley  side  I  oft  have  felt,  while  lookinj;  \i\)  to  tliee. 

Secure,  as  tliough  thy  massive  strength  were  keeping  back  the  sea. 

The  first  important  stopping  place  is  Bridgetown,  I4  miles  from  Annapolis,  situated  in  the  richest  part  of  the  apple- 
growing  country.  It  was  here,  at  Bloody  Brook,  that  a  companv  of  New  ICngland  troops  were  massacred  by  the  French  and 
Indians  in  the  dxiys  when  the  fortunes  of  Annapolis  fluctuated  so  much  like  some  stocks  do  to-day.  Bridgetown  has  about  a> 
many  inhabitants  as  Aimapolis,  and  it  is  a  fine  fishing  and  bunting  centre. 

When  the  conductor  calls  out  "Paradise,"  it  will  be  in  order  to  try  to  work  off  some  new  joke  upon  the  name,  or  el.se 
listen  to  some  one  elst  tell  the  very  old  one  of  how  some  conductors  always  add,  after  a  pause,  the  explanatory  words,  "Nov.n 
Scotia."  This  is  certainly  an  earthh-  paradi.se,  and,  as  with  Bridgetown,  it  is  cultivated  very  assiduou.sly  every  year  by  maM\ 
Airierican  "boarders."  A  road  leads  from  here  across  North  Mountain  to  Port  Williams,  a  fishing  village  on  the  Bay  of 
Fundy  shore,  seven  miles  distant. 

Lawrencetown  is  a  very  pro.sperous  and  pretty  place,  and  has  cjuite  important  farming  and  lumbering  interests. 

Twenty-eight  miles  from  Annapolis  the  train  halts  at  Middleton.  This  is  a  small,  but  very  important  place  —  important 
for  two  reasons :  it  is  the  junction  of  the  new  Nova  Scotia  Central  railway,  which  cuts  directly  across  the  province  to  the 
Atlantic  coast,  and  you  can  get  lunch  here.  The  railway  has  its  other  termini  at  Bridgewater  and  Lunenburg,  and  traverses 
some  of  the  most  rugged  and  picturesque  scenery  in  the  province.     It  is  a   splendidly  equipped  road,  too,  and  ranks  as  one  01 

18 


1 


)olis  valley,  and 
^re  is  no  change 
?8  passed  in  thi- 
;rhaps  not  mou 
and  most  fertiU 
thinjjs  else,  its 
t  in  height,  that 
nf the  provinct, 


t  <»r  the  apple- 
the  French  and 
vn  has  ahout  a- 

e  name,  or  elst 

words,  "Nov.i 

y  year  by  main 

2  on  the  Bay  r.f 

ests. 

ce  —  important 
province  to  the 
:,  and  traverses 
■anks  as  one  oi 


the  finest  in  the  Dominion.  It  makes  an  addition  to  the  tourist's  itinerary  that  is  becoming  more  and  more  appreciated  every 
year,  for  by  it  he  can,  in  returning  from,  or  going  to,  Halifax,  avoid  a  repetition  of  the  valley  route,  pleasant  though  that 
"would  be  again,  and  enjoy  a  comfortable  railroad  jaunt  through  a  new  part  of  the  province  and  a  delightful  6o-mile  sail  along 
the  rock-bound  Atlantic  coast. 

The  beautiful  Nictaux  Falls  and  valley  and  Nictaux  iron  mines  are  near  Middleton,  from  which  can  also  be  reached 
Lower  Middleton,  VVilmot,  Farmington  and  Margaretsville.  The  celebrated  Wilmot  Springs  are  located  about  three  miles 
from  Farmington.  They  are  delightfully  situated,  and  the  waters  of  the  spring  have  remarkable  curative  properties  for  certain 
Ailments.     The  time  is  probali.y  not  far  distant  when    his  will  be  to  Nova  vScotia  what  Poland  Spring  is  to  Maine. 

After  Kingston  and  Auburn  comes  Aylesford,  twelve  miles  from  which  the  magnificent  chain  of  Aylesford  Lakes  begins. 

'he  chief  of  these  is  Kempt  Lake,  about  seven  miles  long. 

The  village  of  Berwick,  which  is  next  reached,  reminds  us  that  we  are  47  miles  from  Annapolis,  and  at  the  enti'ance  to 

Jie  Cornwallis  valley,  the  great  and  well-named  "  (Jarden  of  Nova  Scotia."  This  is  the  finest  agricultural  section  in  the 
vhole  province,  and  its  scenery  is  unsurpassed.  After  Watcrvillc,  Cambridge  and  Coldbrook  have  been  passed,  the  train 
Stops  at  Kentville,  the  most  important  town  l>ctween  Yarmouth  and  Windsor.  25  miles  farther  on.  Kentville  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Windsor  iJc  Annapolis  railway,  and  is  a  thriving  and  pretty  town,  of  decidedly  English  tone.  The  latter  fact 
is  due,  in  some  measure,  to  the  presence  among  the  inhabitants  of  a  luunber  of  retired  British  officers.  The  population  of 
Kentville  is  3,00c,  and  the  fact  that  it  is  tlie  centre  of  sucli  a  large  and  rich  agricultural  district  makes  it  of  no  little  importance 
commercially  and  socially.      The  town  is  charmingly  laid  out,  and  the  opportunities  tor  drives  are  among  the  grandest  in  the 

)rovince. 

Ar    THK    Home    ok    Kvanoeline. 

From  Kentville,  the  little  Cornwallis  Valley  railway,  15  miles  in  length,  takes  the  tourist  through  the  remaining  portion 
of  the  valley,  and  into  a  land  that  words  can  do  but  faint  justice  to.  Not  to  stop  off  here  and  make  this  enchanting  side  trip 
4vould  be  simply  a  crime,  the  only  meet  punishment  for  which  would  be  the  forfeiting  of  all  fmthtr  vacations.  Let  Halifax 
Xjnd  Cape  Breton  and  all  the  rest  of  the  province  wait,  therefore,  until  we  have  made  it. 

i'       If  time  allows,  the  most  satisfying  way  in  which  to  journey  to  this  lovely  corner  of  the  Nova  Scotian  province  is  to  make 
.^e  trip  in  a  leisurely  way  behind  a  span  of  Kent\'ille  horses.     If  the  saving  ol  time  is  our  object,  the  little  railroad — which 


has  tlie  double  distinction  of  being,  probably,  tiic  only  passenger  railway  in  tlic  world  on  which  a  iirst-class  ticket  over  it> 
entire  length  can  be  purchased  for  fifty  cents,  and  the  only  one  that  runs  its  entire  distance  between  two  rows  of  specially 
planted  apple  trees  —  will  make  a  very  good  substitute.  In  going  this  latter  way,  the  tourist  may  stop  at  Canning,  half-way 
along  the  line,  or  continue  to  Kingsport.  the  terminus  of  the  railway,  on  tiie  shores  of  the  beautiful  and  historic  Basin  oi 
Minas.  From  this  highly  favored  s|)ot,  a  wealth  of  agricultural  produce  is  shipped  in  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  each 
season.  But  there  is  a  way  to  see  all  this  and  a  hundredfold  more  at  a  single  glance,  and  enjoy  a  scene  that  it  is  hard  to 
parallel  the  world  over.  This  is  by  getting  otl"  at  Canning,  and  ascending  the  steep  road  that  leads  to  the  famous  "Look- 
Off."  some  four  miles  awav.  It  seems  more  like  40  while  you  arc  getting  there,  but  when  the  summit  of  the  North  Mountiin 
is  reached,  and  the  glance  is  directed  backward  over  the  road  whence  the  traveler  has  come,  such  a  picture  of  panoramic 
beauty  is  presented  as  almost  stuns  the  senses.  It  is  only  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  —  and  mountains  of  six  thousand 
feet  do  not  count  for  much  nowadays — but  the  view  of  meadow,  orchard,  forest,  and  marsh  land,  gemmed  with  the  waters  <it 
river  and  bay,  spreading  out  into  parts  of  five  of  the  richest  counties  of  the  province,  that  confronts  the  overpowered  beholder, 
is  something  that  can  never  he  effaced  from  the  memory.  The  white  farmhouses,  and  the  houses  and  churches  in  the  distant 
villages  look  as  though  thev  were  children's  tovs.  To  the  right,  the  converging  lines  of  the  valley,  melting  into  misty  nothinj^j- 
ness,  are  seen,  and  to  the  left  is  spread  out  the  sparkling  Minas  basin,  and  the  silvery  outlines  of  the  Canning,  Cornwallis 
and  Canard  Rivers,  while  directly  opposite,  behind  the  beautiful  village  of  Wolfville,  rises  the  "  ridge,"  from  which  a  counter 
view  of  the  siime  delightful  scene  from  a  slightly  less  elevated  position  can  be  had.  It  is  here  at  Look-OfI  that  you  want  to 
sit  down  in  the  grassy  clearing,  and  take  out  your  \ohime  of  Longfellow  and  read  his  immortal  story  of  "Evangeline,"  fur 
right  at  your  feet,  in  front  of  Wolfville  itself,  is  the  historic  Grand  Trc  of  Evangeline  and  Gabriel,  and  Basil,  antl  all  the  rest, 
with  the  identical  river  down  wiiich  they  were  taken  to  the  ships  that  bore  them  to  their  exile.  "Evangeline"  has  been  "dene 
to  death,"  in  a  measure,  and  the  impression  ii.-is  gone  forth  in  some  (|uarters  that  this  is  all  there  is  t(  Nova  Scotia  ;  but  this  is 
a  mistake  that  will  soon  regulate  itself.  "Evangeline"  is  only  one  of  the  many  da/zling  gems  in  Nova  Scoti.i's  priceless 
collection. 

While  we  are  still  on  Look-OH",  and  preparing,  reluctantly,  to  descend  to  mundane  things  again,  it  is  well  to  remember 
that  we  are  but  a  short  distance  from  that  remarkable  conformation  of  the  land  which  forms  the  abrupt  ending  of  the  loii{; 
North  Mountain  lange,  and  stands,  sentinel-like,  between  the  Basin  of  Minas  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy-— Cape  Blomidon.  This 
majestic  mass  is  formed  of  red  sandstone,  bearing  some  indications  of  volcanic  action,  and  is  about  670  feet  high.     In  what- 


^  ticket  over  it^ 
)\vs  of  specially 
lining,  half-w.iv 
listoric  Basin  oi 
iig  vessels  each 
at  it  is  hard  t( 
famous  "  Look- 
Vorth  MounUiin 
c  of  panoraniii 
of  six  thousand 
th  th 


r  aspect  it  is  seen  —  whether  with  the  bright  sunHght  shining  on  its  precipitous  sides  and  through  the  trees  that  crown  it, 
whether  the  fleecy  fogs  environ  it,  or  its  40  feet  of  tide  he  high  or  low,  lilomidon  is  always  grand  and  inspiring.  To  make  it 
even  more  interesting,  Indian  legend  clings  closely  to  it,  and  the  superstitious  Micmacs  of  former  times  believed  tliat  the  cape 
was  erected  by  the  mighty  Glooscap.  It  was  thought  by  them  to  have  originally  formed  part  of  a  mannnoth  beaver  dam  that 
was  thrown  across  the  basin  and  was  causing  the  Cornwalliu  valley  to  suffer  from  (hsasirous  overflows  Instead  of  petitioning 
ii>r  a  •'  river  and  harbor"  appropriation  to  overcome  this  difficulty,  the  Indians  appealed  to  Glooscap,  the  mighty,  who  broke 
^pray  the  dam,  swinging  this  end  of  it  around  into  the  present  Cape  Blomidon.  Then,  for  some  reason  that  was  not  ascertained 
V^  the  news-gatherers  of  that  period,  he  strewed  it  liberally  with  gems,  some  of  whicii  are  found  to  this  day,  in  the  shape  of 
^iMSiethyst,  agate,  chalcedony,  etc.      It  is  a  fine  field  for  the  mineralogist. 

Grouped  around  Blomidon,  in  the  Minas  region,  are  various  other  places  of  interest  that  are  usually  visited  from  Kings- 
e  waters  dt  1  jijljit,  Grand  Pre  and  Wolfville  by  steamer  or  boat.      They  include  Partridge  Island,  a  favorite  rendezvous  of  Glooscap;  Five 


vered  beholder. 
js  in  the  distxiiit 
'  mistv  nothing- 
ing,  Cornwallif 
vhich  a  counter 
at  you  want  to 
Evangeline."  fni 
md  all  the  rest. 
las  been  "dene 
^tia  ;  but  this  i^ 
otia's  priceless 

II  to  remenihii 
ng  of  the  loiif,' 
omidon.  This 
igh.      In  vvhat- 


igliinds,  which  are  the  huge  masses  of  rock  he  playfully  threw  at  the  Great  Beaver  when  he  was  demolishing  his  dam  ;  Cape 
Split,  a  huge  mass  of  rock  adjoining  Blomidon;  Parrsboro,  a  delightful  summer  resting  place  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the 
bisin,  from  wlvjh  enjoyable  drives  and  excursions  may  be  made  to  Eraser's  Head;  Moose  River,  with  its  picturesque  water- 
iill ;  and  Boar's  Back,  the  remarkable  natural  causeway  of  eight  miles,  for  which  Glooscap  also  gets  the  credit.  In  fact, 
'  glooscap  had  things  all  his  own  way  in  this  vicinity  until  the  advent  of  Evangeline.  The  fact  that  19  rivers  flow  into  the 
'"iiksin  of  Minas  is  enough  to  show  what  the  diversity  of  scenery  is  here. 

This  pleasant  side  trip  o\er,  a  return  to  Kentville  once  more  through  the  same  beauteous  scenes  is  imperative,  if  we  want 
to  continue  our  rail  journey.      And  still  we  are  not  half  through  the  province. 

If  we  wanted  to  ''  rough  it."  and  enjoy  another  side  trip,  we  might  get  booked  as  a  passenger  on  one  of  Her  Majesty's. 

'ttljal  mail  stages  and  cut  across  country  to  Chester,  46  miles  distant,  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  just  as  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  ' 

Biailway  would  have  taken  us  from  Middleton  to  Lunenburg;   but  we  are  not  going  that  way  this  time.      About  a  mile  and  a 

,  Mlf  from  Kentville,  on  the  line  of  the  Windsor  &  Annapolis,  is  Port   Williams,  from  whence  a  stage  runs  daily  to  Canning, 

Ijjfolfville,  the  pretty  town  famous  as  the  site  of  Acadia  College,  is  the  next  stopping  place.     It  is  located  in  full  sight  of  the 

-BRsin  of  Minas,  the  Gaspereau  River,  and  the  famous  dykes  of  the  ancient  Acadians,  and  those  which  have  been  added  to 

■  l^m  by  their  successors.     These  dykes  reclairi  thousands  of  acres  of  rich  meadow  from  the  sea,  and  make  a  beautiful  picture 

■  ,j|i  the  train  moves  through  them.     It  is  fro;v.  iiere  that  the  most  glorious  view  of  all  can  be  had  of  Blomidon,  and  one  might 


,f*'Vt 


! 


lift 


pass  iiere  a  hiinclrcd  tiiiich  a  vear  and  not  grow  insensible  to  the  beauty  ot  the  scene.  I'he  \  iew  tioni  the  college  itsell  i 
worth  a  thousand  miles'  journey  to  enjo\ .  There  are  dri\es  as  inninnerable  as  beautiful,  and  in  summer  excursion  steamer 
for  points  in  the  basin  already  mentioned  leave  the  town.  The  view  from  -'the  ridge"  is  sublime,  and  includes,  not  onh 
what  has  already  l>een  described,  but  the  picturesque  and  fruitful  Gaspereau  valley  on  the  other  side.  This  is  where  '•  Para 
disc"  ought  to  have  been  located.  The  population  of  Wolfville  is  about  i.cxx),  and  the  college  and  seminary,  both  of  whici 
have  graduated  many  a  brilliant  young  man  and  woman,  are  its  chief  features.  There  are  half  a  dozen  hotels  and  boarding 
houses  in  the  place,  and  it  is  becoming  deservedlv  popidar  with  Amiiicans.  Next  to  Digby.  it  is  probably  the  best  vacatioi 
place  on  that  side  of  the  province. 

The  Grand  Pre  station,  three  miles  beumd  \\olf\ille,  is  a  \er\  uiuissiiming  one.  but  it  is  mc^re  important  than  all  th< 
rest  of  them  put  together.  For  is  not  this  tiie  \  er\  heart  itself  of  the  sacred  '"  Land  of  Evangeline? ''  Here  the  train  stop' 
for  a  moment,  in  order  that  the  passengers  may  jjhotograph  upon  the  tablets  of  their  mcmorv  the  characteristics  of  this  mosi 
"sadly  poetical"  place.  Here  will  be  pointed  out  to  you  the  site  of  the  ancient  ^Vcadian  village,  where  Evangeline  and  lici 
people  dwelt  together  so  happily  until  their  sad  but  necessary  ejection,  the  taiiitly  jjerceptible  foundation  of  the  old  churih, 
the  trailitionary  site  of  the  shop  of  Hasil  the  i>lacksmith,  the  old  willow  trees — sure  indication  of  former  I'lencb  occupation  — 
and  other  features  of  the  historic  ground.  l>ut  all  tliose  tilings  can  be  si'cn  \\  itli  greater  satisfaction  h\  stopping  off  at  Wolf- 
ville, as  all  who  can  do  so  should. 

Leaving  this  lovely  and  romantic  scene,  llort(jn  Landing  is  next  reached.  This  is  but  a  mile  from  Grand  Pre,  and  is 
also  a  favorite  stopping  place  for  tourists  and  head(|uarters  tor  excursions.  There  are  a  couple  of  hotels  here,  where  the  lisual 
low  Nova  Scotian  rates  obtain.  Two  miles  farther  on  is  Avonport.  on  the  l)anks  of  the  Avon  River.  Here  evidences  of  ship- 
ping are  seen,  and  the  railway  keeps  the  river  company  until  Hantsport.  five  miles  away,  is  reached.  This  is  a  bustling 
village,  where  shipbuilding  and  manufactining  are  carried  on  extensiveb  .  It  has  a  goodl\  population,  owns  considerable 
shipping,  and  has  large  interests  in  freestone  cpiarries  in  the  vicinity.  From  the  top  of  Mt.  Densou,  near  bv,  can  be  had 
another  superb  view  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  and  surrounding  country,  and  we  have  the  word  of  ludge  'T.  C  Haliburton  (the 
famous  "  Sam  Slick  "),  that  there  is  little  in  Europe  or  America  to  compare  with  it. 

The  railroad  has  by  this  time  changed  its  course  in  a  more  easterly  direction,  and  alter  the  little  village  of  Falmouth,  rest- 
ing in  the  heart  of  the  rich  gypsum  district,  is  passed,  the  train  crosses  the  .Vvon  on  one  of  the  tinest  bridges  in  the  maritime 
provinces,  and  shortly  atlerwards  rolls  into  the  important  town  f»f  Windsor,  and  brings  the  tourist  to  another  interesting  and 
historic  stopping  place.  ^j 


college  itself  i; 
iirsion  steainir- 
:lii(les,  not  oiiiv 
where  '•  Para- 
l>oth  of  which 
s  and  boauJiiiif 
e  hest  vacation 


ml  than  all  the 
the  train  sti»|)> 
cs  of  this  Frni«t 
iiijeline  ami  her 
the  old  chiMih. 
Ii  occupation — 
w^  off  at  Wolt- 

and  I're,  and  i> 
ivhere  the  i;>iia: 
idences  of  ship- 
lis  is  a  hustling  I 
us  considerable 
l)v,  can  be  had  I 
lalilnirton  (the| 

Falmouth,  re>t- 
n  the  maritime] 
interesting  and! 


«-,»; 


Cape  Blomidon, 


«f«^ 


ij!^ 


I  ' 


VV^indsor  is  uniijue  in  some  of  its  characteristics.  It  is  situated  in  that  part  of  the  province  where  the  Bay  of  Fundy  runs 
things  to  suit  itself,  and  where  tides  of  40  or  50  feet  are  taken  as  an  everyday  occurrence.  As  a  consequence,  the  river  con- 
ducts itself  on  a  "now  you  see  it,  and  now  you  don't,"  sort  of  principle,  and  vessels  have  to  be  tied  to  the  wharf  for  more 
reasons  than  one.  This  seemed  to  disturb  Charles  Dudlej-  Warner  more  than  anything  else,  when  he  came  down  and  wrote 
"  Baddcck,  and  That  Sort  of  Thing."  Windsor  has  a  population  of  over  3,000,  and  is  well  supplied  with  churches,  banks, 
hotels  and  manufactories.  It  has  an  immense  trade  in  the  exportation  of  plaster,  the  average  yearly  output  being  over  100,000 
tons,  and  owns  about  180,000  tons  of  shipping.  The  points  of  interest  in  Windsor  include  King's  College,  the  oldest  educational 
institution  in  the  province,  and  which  is  conducted  on  Episcopalian,  or  Church  of  England,  lines.  It  has  a  very  interesting 
library  and  museum.  "Clifton,"  the  former  residence  of  Judge  Ilaliburton,  one  of  the  ablest  writers,  judges  and  legislators 
the  jMovince  ever  produced,  is  located  not  far  from  the  college,  and  should  be  visited  by  all  means.  The  ruins  of  Fort 
Edward,  from  wiiich  another  tine  view  of  river  and  basin  can  be  had,  should  also  find  a  place  in  the  itinerary.  The  Indian 
name  of  Winilsor  was  "  Fisic|uid,"  "  the  junction  of  the  waters,"  and  in  by-gone  vears  the  trail  of  the  predatory  redskins 
from  the  Annapolis  ^^^lley  to  Halifax  led  through  here. 

The  time-table  will  show  the  tourist  that  he  is  now  46  miles,  or  two  hours,  from  Halifax.  There  will  be  little  to  divert 
his  attention  until  the  capital  city  is  nearly  reached,  and,  perhaps,  he  will  appreciate  this  just  as  much,  when  the  surfeit  of 
sight-seeing  he  has  alread^•  had  is  taken  into  consideration.  The  stations  passed  by  the  railwa\'  on  its  own  line  are  Newport, 
Ellershouse,  Mt.  Uniacke  and  l?eaver  Bank,  and  at  Windsor  Junction,  which  some  wag  has  said  has  admirable  facilities  for 
the  })asturage  of  goats,  and  the  procuring  of  ballast  for  breakwaters,  the  rails  of  the  great  Intercolonial  system,  which  weds 
Halifax  witli  St.  John  and  Qiiebec,  are  entered  upon.  The  intervening  32  miles  have  been  through  a  wooded  country,  in 
whose  quiet  recesses  a  complete  change  has  come  over  the  physical  make-up  of  the  land. 

From  Windsor  Junction  the  journey  lies  for  several  miles  through  a  rather  wild  and  rocky  country,  broken  by  several 
lakes  that  appear  on  either  side  of  the  track.  This  scene  of  desolation  suddenly  gives  way  to  one  of  the  fairest  prospects  on 
this  side  of  the  province,  however,  when  tlie  head  of  Bedford  Basin,  10  miles  from  Halifax  is  reached.  This  broad  and  deep 
and  placid  sheet  of  water,  with  nothing  to  distinguish  it  from  a  huge  lake  save  the  sea-weed  and  the  marks  of  the  tide  upon 
its  pebbly  shores,  is  one  oi  the  favorite  excursion  points  for  the  Halifax  people.  The  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing  are 
unexcelled,  and  the  locality  deserves  all  the  good  things  that  have  been  said  about  it.  At  Bedford  itself,  which  is  passed  bv 
the  train,  there  is  quite  a  settlement,  and  several  summer  hotels. 


A    Halt    at    Halu  ax. 


I' 


As  the  train  draws  near  the  city,  hidden  l)ehind  a  promontory  where  the  IJasin  joins  the  harbor  at  the  "'Narrows,"  tliai 
white  building  you  sec  perched  upon  the  hill  to  the  right  is  the  city  prison,  and  those  peculiar  little  iiouses,  around  which  a 
colony  of  colored  people  lounge  and  little  pickaninnies  play,  is  Africvillc,  one  of  the  numerous  settlements  of  the  colored 
brother  in  this  vicinity.  Richmond,  at  the  northern  limit  of  the  city,  with  its  big  deep  water  terminus,  at  which  ocean  vessel^ 
lie,  and  its  immense  dry  dock  and  sugar  refinery,  is  next  passed,  and  in  a  moment  more  the  train  rolls  into  the  splendid  station 
of  the  Intercolonial  railway,  and  the  tourist  is  in  Halifax,  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Maritime  Provinces,  the  famous  North  American 
headquarters  of  Great  Britain's  army  and  n.ivv,  and  the  capital  of  Nova  Scotia.  Don't  mind  tiiose  clamoring,  Niagara-liki 
hackmen.  They  don't  represent  the  people  of  Halifax,  any  more  than  do  the  gloomy  and  old-fashioned  streets  tinough  whicii. 
with  true  hack-driver's  instinct,  they  take  you.  represent  the  city  itself. 

Vou  will  realize  before  you  are  in  it  long  that  the  place  which  Lord  Cornwallis  founded  in  1749,  is  something  more  than 
a  country  village,  and  that  you  cannot  do  justice  to  it  in  a  day.  Neither  can  this  unique  Nova  Scotian  metropolis  be  doiu 
justice  to  in  a  book  that  is  necessarily  limited  as  this  is.  In  the  lirst  place,  there  are  some  39,000  people  in  it.  There  ha^ 
been  just  about  this  number  for  several  years,  for  Halifax,  which  is  conservative  in  all  things,  is  consistent  even  in  respect  tn 
its  population.  The  city  is  spread  out  over  a  very  wide  area,  so  that  this,  together  with  the  many  things  of  interest  within  it. 
and  innumerable  attractions  outside  its  limits,  makes  the  thorough  inspection  of  it  a  matter  of  days.  The  city  has  been  written 
about  so  much,  that  its  principal  characteristics  are  reasonably  well  known  to  the  New  Kngland  public.  In  the  first  place,  it 
is  an  essentially  English  city,  and  it  could  not  well  be  otherwise  when  its  importance  as  a  military  and  naval  station  is  con- 
sidered. A  great  many  American  journalists  who  have  come  and  seen  and  written  have  failed  to  take  Halifax  seriously, 
much  to  the  disgu,st  of  its  people;  but  to  "  go  to  Halifax"  means  to  find  one's  self  at  a  very  substantial  and  important  place. 
There  is  plenty  of  wealth  in  the  community,  wrested  from  a  one-time  profitable  commerce,  and  "  society  "  and  ••  culture  "  are  no 
more  strangers  to  the  place  than  they  are  to  Boston.  The  tie  that  binds  it  to  the  latter  city  is  very  strong,  too,  for  hundreds 
of  its  young  men  and  women  have  found  their  way  there  in  the  past  few  years,  to  make  new  homes  and  fortunes  for  them- 
selves. 

That  first  great  requisite,  from  the  tourist's  standpoint,  good  hotel  accommodations,  are  to  be  found  here.  Of  the  several 
hotels,  either  the  C^ueen  or  the  Halifax,  both  adjoining  in  the  central  part  of  the  city,  can  be  unhesitatingly  recommendec". 


24 


ows,"  that 
id  which  ;i 
he  colored 
■an  vesseK 
cHd  station 
American 
aji^ara-likr 
gh  whicli. 

more  than 
is  be  dom 
riiere  ha^> 
respect  V^ 
within  it. 
en  written 
t  place,  it 
on  is  con- 
seriously. 
^nt  placf. 
e"  are  nn 
hundred^ 
for  theni- 

le  sevenil 
imendec'. 


*  ^-  (•  .^.-.j 


On  the  South  Mountain. 


They  will  be  found  to  rank  with  the  best  in  Canada.  Once  established  at  one  ot  these,  the  visitor  will  not  find  the  time  hang- 
ing heavily  on  his  hands,  for  the  sights  of  tiie  city  are  within  a  few  minutes'  walk  or  drive.  These  include,  perhaps  first  of 
all,  the  Citadel  hill,  rising  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  harbor,  at  the  back  of  the  city,  and  from  the  top  of  which  a  glorious 
and  comprehensive  view  of  Halifax  and  its  environs  may  be  had.  An  impregnable  fortress  —  one  of  a  dozen  like  it  in  the 
vicinity  —  surmounts  the  hill,  but  is  not  now  accessible  to  visitors  who  have  no  "pull"  at  headquarters.  This  is  really  the 
best  way  to  start  out  to  see  the  town,  for  it  gives  a  well-defined  idea  as  to  what  the  place  is.  Commencing  with  the  old 
Province  Building,  where  the  local  pariiamcMit  meets,  and  where  tlie  provincial  library  and  a  fine  collection  of  portraits  of 
famous  Nova  Scotians  are  maintained,  there  is  a  long  list  of  public  buildings  and  institutions  to  be  seen.  Within  ten  minutes' 
walk  of  the  Province  Building  are  the  Post-office  Building,  in  which  is  located  the  splendid  provincial  museum;  the  (Queen's 
wharf,  the  Ordnance  yard,  where  cannon  and  shot  enough  to  make  a  sieve  of  the  sky  are  kept;  tlie  new  and  handsome  City 
Hall,  fronting  on  the  Grand  Parade  ;  St.  Paul's  Church  ;  St.  Mary's  Cathedral ;  St.  Paul's  cemetery,  where  the  m  inument  to 
Parker  and  Welsford,  the  Crimean  heroes,  is  seen;  the  quaint  stone  residence  of  the  lieutenant-governor;  tlie  Academy  of 
Music;  the  Halifax  Club,  and  the  leading  banking,  insurance,  telegraph,  railroad  and  newspaper  offices.  Then  there  is  the 
big  Wellington  Barracks,  at  the  north  end  of  the  town,  where  the  red-coated  soldiers  of  Her  Majesty  arc  housed,  and  the 
smaller  one  at  the  foot  of  the  Citadel;  the  wonderful  dry-dock,  613  feet  long;  the  imperial  Dockyard  adjoining  arid  the  great 
men-of-war;  the  Victoria  General  Hospital ;  the  new  Dalhousie  College ;  the  institutions  for  the  blind  and  deaf  mutes;  the 
Exhibition  Building,  and  a  score  of  other  institutions.  One  of  the  most  unique  and  interesting  sights  of  the  town  is  the  open 
market  scene  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Post-office,  on  Saturday.  Here,  from  daylight  until  dark,  may  be  fount?  scores  of  country 
people  who  have  pre-empted  the  sidewalks  for  whole  blocks,  and  are  busy  disposing  of  their  poultry,  eggs  and  garden  truck 
to  the  housewives  of  the  town.  They  come  from  miles  away,  many  of  them,  and  the  coal-black  "  darkies,"  with  their  berries 
and  "yarbs,"  and  the  melancholy  relics  of  poor  "Lo,"  with  their  baskets  and  bows,  are  also  there  in  goodly  numbers  to  add 
to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  scene.  It  is  truly  an  interesting  sight,  and  cannot  be  duplicated  outside  of  the  market-place  at 
Qijebec,  where  everything  is  French.  Another  important  event  in  the  rather  uneventful  Halifax  week  is  the  parade  of  the 
soldiers  to  church  on  Sunday  morning.  They  worship  in  Garrison  Chapel,  near  the  Citadel,  and  are  always  headed  by  their 
big  brass  band.  It  is  always  in  order  for  the  visitor  to  watch  them  march  into  the  church,  and  then  follow  them  in  and  wit- 
ness the  services.     Indeed,  Halifax  without  its  soldiers,  would  be  like  Boston  without  its  gilded  dome. 

It  is  in  her  natural  beauties,  though,  that  Halifax  scores  her  greatest  triumph,  and  the  chief  of  these  is  the  lovely  Public 

»5 


Garden.  Not  to  visit  this  would  be  to  fail  to  see  Halifax.  It  is  a  little  square  corner  cut  out  of  Paradise,  where  the  social 
life  of  Halifax,  especially  on  Saturday  afternoon,  when  the  band  concerts  are  given,  can  be  seen  in  every  aspect.  Money 
couldn't  buy  it  from  the  Halifaxians.  Another  beauty  spot  is  Point  Pleasant  Park,  a  magnificent  stretch  of  virgin  forest,  witii 
beautiful  driving  roads  cut  througli  it.  At  its  extreme  end  is  another  fort  and  martello  tower,  and  an  enchanting  view  of  the 
ocean.  There  are  numerous  other  drives,  one  of  the  most  charming  being  to  tiie  North  West  Arm,  a  beautiful  inlet  of  the 
sea,  west  of  the  city.  It  is  about  three  miles  long  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide.  Its  shores  are  lined  with  the  elegant  estates 
of  some  of  the  most  prominent  citizens  of  Halifax,  and,  in  this  respect,  reminds  one  of  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  just  above 
New  York.  Excursions  by  steamer  can  be  made  to  this  place,  to  Bedford  Basin.  Ct)W  Bay  (the  coming  watering  place  of 
Halifax),  Prince's  Lodge  and  several  other  points.  W'iicn  all  these  are  exhausted,  there  is  tiic  pretty  town  of  Dartmouth  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  harbor,  reached  by  ferry,  and  with  a  delightful  chain  f)f  lakes  at  its  back  door.  Access  can  also  be 
had  through  here  to  the  gold  mines  in  the  eastern  part  of  Halifax  county,  the  colored  settlement  at  Preston  and  the  Acadian 
French  one  at  Chezzetcook,  and  the  splendid  farm  and  forest  region  of  Musquodoboit.  Wliat  with  the  natural  hospitality  of 
the  people  of  Halifax,  and  the  unrivalled  bill  of  fare  they  can  set  before  one  in  the  way  of  outdoor  antl  indoor  attractions, 
combined  with  the  bracing  quality  of  their  summer  climate,  that  \  isitor  is  hard  to  please,  indeed,  who  will  go  away  dissatisfied 
with  his  stay  in  tiic  deliglitful  city  by  tlie  sea. 

To    Captivating    Capb    Breton. 

When  the  already  deligiited  tourist  has  completed  his  inspection  of  the  capital  city,  there  are  yet  a  score  or  more  places 
wherein  he  can  still  feast  his  soul  upon  Nova  Scotia  scenery  and  study  still  more  unique  provincial  characteristics  to  his  heart's 
content.  These  lie  along  three  distinct  routes,  and  a  volume  might  be  devoted  to  each  of  them.  The  first  of  these  lies  back 
over  the  former  route  as  far  as  Windsor  Junction,  and  through  the  remaining  half  of  the  province,  across  the  Strait  of  Canso, 
and  tiirough  the  wonderfully  beautiful  island  of  Cape  Breton  —  the  Switzerland  of  North  America.  The  second  is  to  follow 
this  route  to  Truro  and  then  branch  off  through  the  narrow  but  interesting  isthmus  that  joins  the  province  to  the  mainland  and 
New  Brunswick,  continuing  around  as  far  as  St.  John,  if  desired,  hi  either  case  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  railway  will  be 
followed,  and  the  routes  can,  therefore,  be  plainly  picked  out  on  a  map  of  the  province.  The  third  is  the  Atlantic  coast 
route,  westward  from  Halifax,  taking  in  the  magnificent  shore  scener}-  that  lies  along  this  unbeaten  path,  with  its  numerous 
important  settlements,  and  ending  the  tour  at  Yarmouth,  where  it  began. 

26 


We  are  not  ready  to  turn  back  yet,  liowevcr,  and  so  let  it  he  the  first-named  route.  The  train  leaves  Halifax  over  the 
Intercolonial  early  in  the  morning,  and  the  principal  point  of  interest  between  here  and  Truro  is  Shubenacadie,  40  miles 
distant.  This  is  a  pleasant  farming  region,  through  which  a  river  of  the  same  name  runs,  and  was  at  one  time  (juite  an  im- 
portant headquarters  of  tiie  Micmac  Indians.     Some  of  them  still  remain,  but  not  exactly  in  primitive  condition. 

Truro,  22  miles  farther  on,  is  a  town  of  about  5,000  inhabitants,  and  is  very  pleasantly  situated  about  two  miles  from  the 
head  ofCobequid  Bay,  an  arm  of  the  Basin  of  Minas.  It  contains  the  provincial  Normal  School,  has  various  industries,  and  is 
altogether  a  very  bustling  place.  It  was  originally  settled  by  the  Acadian  French.  Truro  is  a  very  important  railroad 
junction,  and  trains  usually  stop  here  for  meals.     The  lakes  and  rivers  in  the  vicinity  offer  splendid  opportunities  for  fishing. 

Leaving  here,  the  train  passes  thnnigh  the  picturesciue  little  towns  of  Union,  Riversdale,  Landsdownc  and  Glengarrv,  imtil 
it  reaches  Stellarton,  41  miles  from  Triu'o  and  103  miles  from  Halifax.  Here  we  come  upon  the  outskirts  of  the  great  coal 
tields  of  that  part  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  could  spend  many  an  instructive  hour  exploring  the  mines  and  studying  the  people. 
Coal  mines  are  much  the  same  the  world  over,  however,  and  the  only  special  difference  between  the  mines  of  Nova  Scotia 
and  those  of  Pennsylvania  will  be  found  in  the  character  ol  the  people  who  work  tiiem.  The  coal  mined  here  is  of  a  soft  or 
bituminous  character,  and  is  of  almost  inexhaustible  supply. 

From  Stellarton,  a  branch  runs  t<j  Pictou,  14  miles  distant,  on  the  shores  of  Northumberland  vStrait,  and  from  which 
the  neighboring  province  of  Prince  Edward  Island  can  be  seen.  It  has  a  goodly  number  of  inhabitants,  and  is  the  great  coal 
exporting  point  of  this  region.  It  was  ff)rmerly  the  site  of  an  Indian  village  —  which  means,  of  course,  more  Glooscap 
legends  —  and,  despite  the  prosaic  nature  of  its  chief  industry,  has  some  really  pretty  scenery  to  commend  it.  Its  harbor  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  province.     .Steamship  connection  with  Prince  Edward  Island  is  maintained  from  there. 

New  Glasgow,  "  the  Sheffield  of  Nova  Scotia."  is  next  reached  after  the  return  to  the  main  line.  This  bustling  place, 
with  all  the  "get  there"  of  a  Western  "boom"  town,  has  some  very  important  industries,  particularly  in  the  manufacture 
of  iron  and  steel.  It  is  located  on  the  East  River,  and  has  a  population  of  about  4,000.  There  is  some  good  scenery  in  the 
vicinity. 

Thus  far,  since  leaving  Pictou,  the  way  has  been  through  one  big  coal  bed,  and  one  can  readily  believe  the  statement  that 
in  Pictou  county  (which,  with  Cumberland  county  adjoining,  furnishes  three-fifths  of  the  output  of  the  province),  there  are 
5,567  feet  of  strata,  containing  14  feet  of  coal  in  16  beds;  also,  that  there  are  in  the  whole  province  76  great  seams  of  coal, 
having  a  thickness  of  14,750  feet  of  deposits.     Before  leaving  this  part  of  the  country,  too,  let  it  be  remembered  that  Pictou, 

27 


11 

i ') 

t 

Stellarton  and  New  Glasgow  art-  important  starting  points  for  the  sportsmen  wlio  have  come  down  in  the  fall  and  winter  for 
moose,  caribou,  bear,  and  other  big  game,  besides  an  unlimited  collection  of  small  fry. 

It  is  a  run  of  42  miles  to  the  next  important  stoi)i)ing  place —  Antigonish.  Meanwhile,  the  train  has  been  passing 
through  some  superb  valley  scenery,  at  times  almost  wildly  picturesque.  Here,  again,  the  province  takes  on  another  of  its 
many  aspects,  (jlenfalloch,  Merigomish  and  Marshy  Hope  are  names  of  way  stations  that  will  strike  the  visitor  as  somewhat 
peculiar,  perhaps;  and,  possibly,  the  broad  Scotch  accent  of  some  of  the  inhabitants  might  do  the  same.  Antigonish  is  a  very 
striking  and  beautiful  town,  inhabited  mostly  by  Scotch  Catholics.  It  has  been  called  by  many  the  prettiest  settlement  in  the 
province,  and  its  people  are  quite  content  to  have  it  known  as  sucli.  It  is  certainly  a  most  unique  one.  Antigonish  is  the 
residence  of  the  Bishop  of  Arichat.  Its  principal  features  are  St.  Francis  Xavicr  College,  and  the  cathedral  of  .St.  Ninian, 
one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  places  of  worship  in  Canada.  The  scenery  about  Antigonish  is  delightful,  and  a  drive 
amongst  the  hills  or  toward  the  distant  harbor  is  recompense  enough  for  a  journey  thither.  Not  so  picturesque,  hut  decidedly 
interesting,  is  a  visit  to  one  of  the  big  cheese  factories  of  the  town.  From  here,  also,  a  desirable  hunting  and  Ushing  region 
can  be  reached,  f(ir  Guysborough,  the  great  wilderness  county  of  the  province,  fronting  on  tiie  Atlantic,  adjoins  it. 

Afler  Antigonish  comes  some  more  fine  scenery,  charmingly  diversified,  with  hero  and  tiiere  glimpses  of  the  salt  water. 
Twenty  miles  beyond  is  Tracadie,  famous  for  the  monastery  and  farms  of  the  Trapjiist  brothers,  and  where  an  Indian  resen'e 
is  also  located.  The  situation  of  this  place,  on  the  shores  of  St.  George's  l^ay,  i--  nu)sl  lieautifid.  Greater  beauties  than  this 
are  in  store  for  the  tra\eler,  for  17  miles  fartlier  on  he  readies  tlic  limit  of  his  land  journey,  and  stands  on  the  shore  of  that 
most  magnificent  "  g(jlden  gateway  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,"  the  Strait  of  Canso,  separating  him  from  tiie  intoxicating 
glories  of  Caj)e  Breton  beyond. 

It  is  not  the  design  oi  this  publication  to  give  a  complete  description  of  Xo\a  .Scotia  in  one  edition.  I>ucli  a  book,  if  an\- 
thing  like  full  justice  were  clone  the  subject,  would  l)e  unwieldy,  and  would  defeat  one  of  its  most  important  objects.  In 
pursuance  of  this  idea,  therefore.  Cape  Breton  and  tlie  other  places  to  be  hereafter  touched  iq)on  will  be  but  brieflv  mentioned, 
to  be  given  later  on  the  more  extended  mention  they  merit,  accom])anied  by  appropriate  illustrations.  It  is  hard,  however,  to 
dismiss  Cape  Breton  in  this  summary  manner,  for  this  sea-invaded  island  is  veril\-  the  fjueen  of  sunnner  resorts.  A  delicious 
sample  of  its  beauty  can  be  seen  even  as  the  passenger  stands  upon  the  wharf  at  I'ort  Midgrave,  the  terminus  of  the  Inter- 
colonial railway  in  Nova  Scotia  proper,  where  he  is  to  take  either  the  transfer  across  the  beautiful  strait  to  Port  Hawkesbury 
opposite,  there  to  resume  his  railroad  journey  over  the  New  Cape  Breton  railway,  or  board  the  little  steamer  that  will  take 

2S 


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View  from  the  Look  Off, 


him  on  an  even  more  romantic  journey  through  Cape  Breton's  enchanting  inland  sea.  This  picturesque  strait,  which  con- 
nects the  Atlantic  with  the  Gulf  of  vSt.  Lawrence  and  separates  the  peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia  from  its  insular  sister,  is  about 
14  miles  long  and  a  mile  in  a\erage  width.  Its  waters  rush  between  precipitous  wooded  banks,  and  thousands  of  vessels  find 
it  a  convenient  passage  way  or  anchorage  every  year.  Some  times  whole  fleets  of  them  may  be  seen  there,  detained  by  adverse- 
winds,  or  majestically  making  their  way  through.  Not  far  from  Mulgrave,  on  the  West,  is  Cape  Porcupine,  high  and  im- 
pressive, and  toward  the  Atlantic  end  are  Pirate  Harbor,  and  other  picturesquely  located  places. 

Crossing  to  Point  Tupper,  Port  Ilavvkesbury,  if  we  arc  to  continue  the  railway  journey,  some  15  stations  are  passed,  on  a 
run  of  90  miles,  until  Sydne)'^  at  the  farthest  point  north  usually  visited  by  tourists,  is  reached.  These  include  Grand  Narrows, 
where  the  train  crosses  the  great  iron  bridge,  1.697  feet  in  length,  having  seven  spans  and  a  draw  in  the  centre;  and  North 
Sydney,  the  great  coa)  ng  station  for  ocean  steamers.  .Some  of  the  finest  of  Cape  Breton's  renowned  scenery  is  to  be  seen  on 
this  trip,  but  an  excellent  pi  ui  is  to  make  the  jounie}  one  way  by  rail  and  another  by  steamer.  The  latter  conn^xts  with  the 
express  train  from  Halifax  (which  carries  elegant  l)uffet  parlor  cars  right  through  to  Sydney,  by  the  way),  and  after  leaving 
Mulgrave  sails  through  the  prettiest  part  of  the  Strait  of  Caiiso,  and  follows  the  Atlantic  shore  of  Cape  Breton  until  it  reaches 
Lenox  Passage.  This  loveK  strait  divides  the  island  from  (|uaint  old  Isle  Madame,  on  the  further  side  of  which  is  located 
the  famous  French  fishing  settlement  of  Arichat.  After  a  brief  stop  at  the  west  side  of  Madame,  the  little  steamer  ploughs 
her  wav  through  the  quiet  waters  into  St.  Peter's  Bay,  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  Cape  Breton  proper.  Here  the  steamer  enters 
the  lock  of  the  half-mile  canal  which  coimects  the  ocean  with  its  inland  trii)utary  beyond,  and  saves  so  many  weary  miles'  sail 
along  the  perilous  coast.  In  going  through  this  canal,  the  interesting  village  of  .St.  Peter's,  a  Scottish  settlement,  is  passed. 
Near  here,  too,  is  Chapel  Island,  where  the  Micniac  Indians  gather  each  year  to  hold  their  quaint  ceremony  of  the  festival  of 
.St.  Anne.  What  a  picture  bursts  upon  the  gaze  wiien  .St.  Peter's  canal  is  finally  passed,  and  the  vessel  is  fairly  launched  into 
the  placid  and  crystal  waters  of  the  e\  er  l)eautiful  Bras  d'Or !  It  is  only  the  beginning,  however,  of  the  same  beautiful 
panorama  that  is  to  be  unfolded  to  the  surprised  and  delighted  gaze  for  nearly  a  hundred  miles.  Cape  Breton  is  about  100 
miles  long  by  80  miles  wide,  and  of  the  2,ooo,(X)0  acres,  nearly  Scx),ooo  consist  af  lakes.  The  latter  are  principally  the 
great  .salt  water  inlets.  Great  Bras  d'Or  and  Little  Bras  d'Or,  very  appropriately  typifying  "  the  Arm  of  Gold."  The  long 
and  narrow  island  of  Boularderie  divides  the  two.  and  it  is  the  larger  of  the  two  passages  that  is  used  mostly  for  navigation. 
Stretched  along  the  shores  of  this  lovely  inland  sea  arc  various  points  of  interest  that  are  touched  at  by  the  steamer,  notably 
Grand  Narrows,  which  boasts  of  a  first-class  hotel,  and  Baddeck,  the  glorious  summer  home  of  Prof.  Graham  Bell,  George 


;:( If 

III 


Kennan,  and  other  notables.  Near  Grand  Narrows  (more  properly  the  Strait  of  Barra)  is  the  magnificent  river  Denys  and  its 
basin,  and  at  Baddeck  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  Margaree  and  Big  Baddeck  rivers,  Whycocomagh,  with  its  beautiful 
waterfall,  and  other  interesting  points.  Explorations  into  the  hunting  grounds  of  the  untravelled  northern  highlands  region 
can  also  be  made.  At  Baddeck,  there  is  usually  an  interesting  Indian  camp  to  be  seen  in  summer.  In  fact,  you  can  find 
bands  of  the  once  proud  Micmacs  in  almost  any  part  of  the  province  you  may  happen  to  visit,  and  one  begins  to  think  the 
census  enumerator  made  a  slight  mistake  when  he  gave  the  country  credit  for  owning  only  about  two  thousand  of  them.  Thu 
scenery  at  Baddeck  is  like  that  at  all  other  points  along  the  journey,  sublime  —  (mly  a  little  more  so.  Green  hills  are  always 
at  hand,  and  blue  ones  in  the  distance,  and  if  the  trip,  or  a  part  of  it  be  made  by  moonlight  over  the  calm  and  mirror-like 
waters,  with  the  sweet  incense  of  the  forest  tempered  with  the  salty  fragrance  of  the  ocean  blowing  in  one's  nostrils,  the  for- 
tunate possessor  of  this  rich  privilege  will  never  again  wonder  why  peojjle  ra\e  over  Cape  Breton. 

Another  transition  comes  when  Sydnev  and  North  Sydney  are  reached.  Here  we  are  again  within  sight  of  the 
ocean,  and  600  miles  from  Bo'^ton.  Here,  too,  is  another  and  even  richer  section  of  tlie  great  Nova  Scotian  coal  bed,  where 
hundreds  of  workers  are  busy  night  and  ilay  extracting  the  l)ituniinous  product  that  is  to  l>e  carried  awav  in  great  steamers  and 
sailing  vessels,  and  where  the  tall  and  ghostly  chinnieys  and  siiaft  houses  of  the  mines  uprear  themselves  on  every  hantl. 
Sydney  itself,  the  principal  city  of  Cape  Breton,  is  an  interesting  place  and  has  a  very  fine  harbor.  It  can  be  seen,  however, 
in  a  few  hours.  Twenty-four  miles  away  is  historic  Louisburg,  tlie  once  magnificent  fortress,  upon  which  the  French  lavished 
25  years  and  six  millions  of  dollars  in  their  attempt  to  make  it  impregnable.  No  need  to  repeat  its  familiar  story  here,  or  to 
call  attention  to  the  peculiar  interest  it  should  have  to  all  New  Englanders.  The  old  fort  is  in  much  the  same  state  as  that  at 
Annapolis  now,  but  its  historic  memories  make  it  well  worth  a  visit.  Here,  and  at  Svdnev,  ends  the  more  beaten  path  of  the 
tourist,  but  the  beauties  of  the  route  ha\e  oidy  been  barely  hinted  at.  Some  dav  the  great  imsettled  countrv  toward  Cajie 
North  will  be  opened  up  to  the  vacationist,  iiul  a  month  and  more  could  be  spent  in  exploring  the  places  already  familiarly 
known,  and  still  not  yet  overrun  with  visitors.  As  to  the  climate  of  this  peerless  Scottish-highland  region,  here  is  what  an 
expert  upon  such  matters  has  to  say.  and  smely  no  more  need  be  said  :*•  The  sunnners  of  Cape  Breton,  sav  from  May  to 
October,  may  challenge  comparison  with  those  <  f  any  country  within  the  temperate  regions  of  the  world.  Bright,  sunnv  davs. 
with  balmy  westerly  winds,  follow  each  other  in  succession,  week  after  week,  while  the  midday  heats  are  often  tempered  bv 
cool,  refreshing  sea-breezes.  Of  rain,  there  is  seldom  enough ;  the  growing  crops  more  often  suffer  from  too  little  than  too 
much." 


The    Isthmus,    and    Alono    the    Coast. 


Good-by,  for  the  present  to  bonny  Cape  Breton,  and  its  Gaelic  accent  and  customs,  and  back  once  more  to  Truro,  for  a 
fleeting  glance  at  what  the  busy  isthmus  has  to  offer.  The  Nova  Scotian  part  of  this  territory  is  included  in  the  76  miles 
between  Truro  and  Andierst.  There  are  16  stopping  places  on  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  railway,  each  one,  of  course, 
leading  to  half  a  dozen  other  interesting  places.  The  first  important  one  of  these  is  Londonderry,  from  which  a  branch  rail- 
way runs  three  miles  to  the  Acadia  Iron  Works,  and  from  whence  stages  can  be  taken  for  Economy  and  Fi\  e  Islands.  At 
FoUeigh  Lake,  a  few  miles  farther  on,  the  traveler  finds  himself  on  the  crest  of  the  picturesque  Cobequid  mountains,  and  607 
feet  above  the  sea. 

From  Oxford  Junction,  a  few  miles  farther  still,  a  l)ranch  road  runs  to  Pictou,  already  described,  and  also  gives  access  to 
the  pretty  villages  of  Oxford,  I'ugwash,  Wallace,  Tatamagouche  and  River  John.  Oxford  is  noted  for  its  manufacture  of 
Nova  Scotian  homespuns,  and  Pugwash  has  a  remarkably  fine  harbor.  The  hunting  and  fishing  (both  fresh  and  salt  water) 
are  excellent  all  through  this  section. 

Next  in  order,  and  just  121  miles  from  Halifax,  is  Springhill,  whose  great  coal  mines  produce  double  the  amount  of  black 
diamonds  that  anv  other  mine  in  the  pro\  ince  does.  The  terrible  expl()sion  here,  on  Feb.  21,  1891,  by  which  125  people  lost 
their  lives,  is  still  fresh  in  the  public  mind.  From  here,  a  short  side  journey  can  be  taken  to  Parrsboro,  where  the  scenery  of 
the  storied  Basin  of  Minas.  aheadv  mentioned  in  connection  with  Blomidon  and  (irand  Pre,  may  be  enjoyed. 

At  Maccan  a  branch  railwav  will  open  up  another  interesting  side  trip  to  Joggins,  on  the  shore  of  Chignecio  Bay,  which 
iiiarks  th"  •"•trtiiest  limit  of  (lie  mistv  Bav  of  Fundy.  At  Joggins  there  is  an  extensive  coal  mine,  but  of  late  years  it  has  be- 
come chiefly  famous  on  account  of  the  construction  tiiere  of  tiie  famous  Lcary  log  rafts.  These  huge  rafts,  some  of  them  con- 
taining 27,000  sticks,  weighing  in  all  i  i.ooo  tons,  and  having  a  total  length  of  730  feet,  are  built  on  the  shore  and  launched  the 
siime  as  ves.sels.  They  are  then  towed  to  New  York  or  other  points,  saving  fl^-usands  of  dollars  that  would  otherwise  have  to 
be  paid  in  freight.      Mere,  too,  are  to  be  seen  the  highest  tides  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  they  are  well  worthy  the  name  of  high. 

Regaining  the  main  line  of  the  railway,  and  passing  Nappan,  where  the  government  experimental  farm  is  located, 
Amherst,  and  at  the  same  time  the  bounilary  line  of  the  province  and  the  narrowest  part  of  the  isthmus,  is  reached.  Amherst 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  the  province.  Surrounding  it  are  thousands  of  acres  of  the  richest  salt  marsh  land  in 
the  world.     It  is  wonderful  in  its  extent  anil  wealth,  anil  New  Brimswick,  across  the  line,  has  been  even  more  prodigally  en- 

31 


■T'S^'n'T*''" 


dowed  with  it  than  Nova  Scotia.  One  of  these  marshes  is  known  as  the  El\  sian  Fields.  The  original  French  settlers  named 
the  place  Beaubassin  on  account  of  its  great  beauty.  Amherst  itself  is  one  of  the  prettiest  and  most  progressive  of  towns  and 
has  a  present  population  of  ^,000.  It  offers  opportunities  iniuuuerable  for  drives  and  excursions,  and  a  great  many  sports- 
men make  it  their  headquarters.  The  concluding  wonder  of  this  part  of  the  province  is  the  partially  completed  Chignecto 
Ship  railway.  This  enterprise  is  designed  to  carry  vessels  of  any  size  overland,  between  the  Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence,  thus  saving  the  long  and  dangerous  voyage  around  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  isthnuis  here  is  only 
17  miles  wide,  and  the  idea  seems  feasible  enough. 

If  he  desired  to,  the  tourist  could  now  continue  his  railway  journey  until  he  reached  Moncton  and  St.  John,  taking  at  tlio 
latter  place  either  a  steamer  of  the  Yarmouth  Steamship  Company  for  Yarmouth,  one  for  Digby.  40  miles  across  the  bay, 
or  a  train  for  Bangor,  Boston,  Montreal,  Vancouver,  or  any  other  point  in  the  United  States  or  Canada.  For  present  purposes, 
however,  he  will  allow  the  railway  to  bring  him  back  to  Halifax  again,  from  wliich  place  he  will  set  out  over  the  last  of  tne 
three  routes  previously  mentioned.  Again,  as  ever,  something  equallv  new  and  interesting  awaits  him.  Thousands  of  people 
have  sailed  out  of  Halifax  harbor  and  never  known  what  beauties  lav  along  their  path,  simply  liecause  their  vessel  did  not  keep 
close  enough  to  the  shore  to  allow  of  an  inspection  of  them.  There  inav  have  been  other  reasons,  but  that  is  neither  here  nor 
there.  Halifax  is  located  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  peninsula  proper,  so  that  there  is  a  coastline  on  each  side  of  it  to  be  ex- 
plored. These  are  known  as  the  east  and  west  shores,  respectively.  The  east  shore  is  interesting,  presenting  as  it  does  some 
of  the  most  famous  of  the  Nova  Scotia  gold  mines,  the  picturesque  region  of  Guysborough  county,  terminating  in  the  Strait  of 
Canso,  but  as  yet  it  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  open  to  general  travel.  It  is  accessible  now  only  by  stage.  The  west  shore, 
however,  is  the  tourist's  paradise,  and  it,  too,  will  receive  the  description  and  illustration  it  deserves  at  another  time.  The 
time  is  near  at  hand  when  certain  parts  of  it  will  be  as  popular  as  those  that  are  better  known  are  to-day.  The  time  may 
come,  too,  when  this  whole  coast  will  be  accessible  by  rail.  The  two  most  important  stopping  places  after  Halifax  are 
Lunenburg  and  Bridgewater,  ^^hich  are  reached  by  the  steamers  of  the  Lunenburg  &  Halifax  Steamship  Company  and  the 
Coastal  Steam  Packet  Company,  respectively.  In  the  65  miles  that  are  passed  before  Lunenburg  is  reached,  the  steamer 
skirts  one  of  the  most  forbidding  and  dangerous  sections  of  this  "  iron-bound  coast,"  upon  whose  cruel  cliH's  many  a  vessel  has 
plunged  to  destruction.  Numerous  little  harbors  and  inlets,  where  the  hardy  fishermen  dwell,  are  passed  ;  then  comes  Sambro, 
with  its  light,  then  Mar's  Rock,  upon  which  the  steamship  Atlantic  was  wrecked,  in  1S71,  and  600  lives  lost;  then  beautiful 
St.  Margaret's  Bay,  and  then  Chester,  that  most  glorious  of  all  seashore  resorts,  with   its  island-dotted  bay,  with  grand  Mt. 


t  - 


# 


Hk: 


■>;**■   "'  'ip" 


-'hI6  -'i'-  -'pg^  j»    !ii  I 


:i^'rt.,. 


On  Cape  Blomidon. 


AspotiiLjon  (froin  whose  summit  is  to  be  li:id  :i  most  superb  view),  in  tiie  distaiue.  LuiuMil)uiii  is  (iiuillv  readied,  and  iiere  is 
found  another  i)lacc.  where,  as  at  Cliester,  tlie  visitor  can  well  afford  to  spend  da\  s.  Lunenl)urg,  \\u'  old  Indian  name  of  which 
was  Mala<i;ash.  was  settled  in  1753  hy  a  nunil)er  of  (lerman  emif^rants,  whose  characteristics  ha\e  heen  handed  down  to  the 
present  day.  'I'iie  population  of  tiie  town  is  5,000,  and  of  tiie  surroundiuL;-  country  of  the  same  name.  30.000.  The  people  are 
industrious.  pro<jressi\e  and  law-abiding.  Lunenburg,  froni  tiie  imjioitance  of  its  tishing  business,  is  known  as  the  Gloucester 
of  \o\a  .Scotia.  It  can  boast  of  a  post-otHce  and  piililic  building,  new  court  house,  two  news|)apers.  two  steam  wood  manu- 
facturing mills,  a  count\  acacK'nn.  two  schools,  six  cliur:iies  and  an  excellent  tire  ser\  ice.  Tin  re  i'-  certaiiil}'  ;m  abundance  of 
eiiergv  in  its  people.  Among  the  points  of  interest  icav  b\  are  Oak  Island,  recalling  memories  of  C'a|)tain  Kidd  and  his 
elusive  buried  treasure,  and  '•  the  ()\ens."  These  are  situated  on  the  western  side  of  the  harbor,  and  comprise  a  number  of 
\awning  caverns  worn  b\  the  sea.  some  lightv  feet  deep.  Indian  legends  tell  how  a  chief  entered  one  and  came  out  at  the 
Basin  of  Minas. 

Malione  Hav  ,  the  next  point  of  interest,  is  reached  b\  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  railway,  and  is  anotlu'r  charming  place, 
with  unexampled  facilities  lor  salt  water  tishing  and  bathing,  and  boating.  Scores  of  islands  dot  tin-  surface  of  the  ba\  itself, 
and  the  air  is  a  \  er\  tonic.  Next  comes  Ihidgew  aler,  that  perfect  gem  of  a  riveiside  settlement.  nistHni^r  ,,ti  cither  side  of  the 
lovely  Laliave.  This  is  the  nexl  station  to  Malione  Bav .  on  the  railway,  lint  the  water  journey  from  Lunenburg  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Lahave,  and  tiien  iij)  the  i^-mile  stretch  of  that  ••  Rhine  of  Nova  Scotia,"  is  far  to  be  preferred,  from  the  tourist's 
standpoint,  even  if  it  is  four  tiniis  as  long.  Nothing  could  excel  the  (|uiet  grandeur  ol  that  river  scenery,  and  if  anything  can 
awaki'  till'  romantic  in  one's  natin-e.  it  is  surely  that. 

Hridgevvater  is  as  bustling  a  place  as  it  is  attractive,  and  is  the  home  of  some  of  the  most  enterprising  men  in  the  province. 
It  formerly  did  an  immense  business  in  lumber,  although  an  embargo  has  recently  been  placed  ujjon  that,  which  is  not  yet 
lifted.  The  headquarters  of  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  railway,  whose  handsome  station  is  a  credit  to  the  whole  province,  are 
here,  and  this  road  is  each  vear  heconiing  more  and  more  prominent  a  factor  in  the  summer  travel  ol  the  ])iovince. 
I'roni  iiridgewater  interesting  <lrives,  lishing  expeditions  and  railroad  and  river  excursions  can  be  taki'u  ;  and  the  solemnly 
beautiful  region  of  the  great  Poiihook  and  Molega  Lakes,  with  their  ancient  Indian  traditions.  nia\  be  explored  and  tished  in 
for  trout  and  salmon.  .\t  Molega  are  located  the  extensive  goUl  mines  of  tliat  name  —  a  wonderfully  productive  field,  and  a 
bit  of  Australia  set  down  in  the  Nova  Scotia  wilderness  —  the  comlnnation  drive  and  sail  to  which  form  a  most    delightful  and 

33 


instructixe  expeiifncc.      Hcic  tlic  \\  liolc  ])i')cc?<s  of  gold  iiiiiiliig  ;m(l  sincltiiig   may  l>t'  stiidiod  ami  facts  learned  as  to  tlie  pro- 
ductiveness of  the  province  in  this  precious  metal  that  will  astonish  the  stranger. 

Once  having  penetrated  to  this  romantic  neighborhood,  the  tourist  can  take  his  choice  between  pushing  on  further  to  the 
great  hunting  and  fishing  grounds  in  and  about  Lake  Rossignol.  or  follow  tiie  l^iverpool  River  to  Liverpool,  on  the  .\tlantic 
coast  itself.  If  he  goes  to  Rossignol,  which  is  the  largest  lake  in  the  jMoxince,  i.:  miles  hmg  and  S  miles  wide,  he  can  pass 
through  a  whole  series  of  lakes,  and  may  visit  the  hunting  region  of  Iiulian  Gardens  or  the  Blue  Moimtains.  He  w  ill  need  a 
guide  at  anv  rate,  and  if  he  can  secure  an  Indian  one.  so  much  the  better.  The  I^i\eri)(j>)l  Lake  region  is  \ery  beautiful,  but 
it  is  often  very  intricate.      It  affords  magniticent  opportunities  for  "camping  out." 

As  to  Liverpool,  to  return  to  the  coast,  here  is  another  ideal  resting-place,  and  one  which  can  be  reacheil  direct  from 
Halifax  or  Yarmouth  by  the  South  Shore  line  of  the  Yakmoi ni  .S  rKAMSiui'  Company.  Liverpool  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting towns  along  the  coast,  and  occuj^ies  the  site  of  a  former  Indian  lende/xous  —  conscciuentK.  more  (ilooscap  legends. 
It  has  been  a  faxorite  place  for  sinnmer  visitors  for  several  years,  and  offers  many  natural  attractions,  besides  an  opportunity 
to  studv  lumbering,  iishing,  shipl)uilding  and  other  industries.  It  is  one  of  the  most  important  centres  for  fresh  water  fishing 
in  the  pro\ince. 

Leaving  the  rock-bound  harbor,  the  steamer  passes  Port  Mouton,  which  was  \isited  bv  .Sieur  de  Monts  ii*  1604.  Next 
comes  Little  Hope  Island,  famous  for  its  wrecks.  Port  Joli,  and  Lockport,  This  latter  point  is  an  important  fishing  centre, 
having  a  large  West  Indian  trade,  and  furnishes  not  a  few  recruits  for  the  Gloucester  fishing  fleet,  as  do  a  great  manv  other 
Nova  Scotian  towns  and  villages.  Carter's  Island,  with  its  red  light,  and  (JuU  Rock  ledge,  with  its  white  one,  next  appear  to 
view.  These  are  followed  by  Cape  Roseway,  which  has  two  j>owerful  fixed  white  lights,  and  then  the  course  lies  between 
the  picturescpie  banks  of  a  deep  and  roomy  bay.  until  the  town  of  Shelburne  is  reached.  Shelbnrne  is  an  illustrious  example 
of  the  might-have-beens,  and,  indeed,  of  the  has-beens.  Its  real  founders  were  Loyalist  refugees,  who  came  from  the  L'nited 
States  and  settled  here  in  17S3.  intending  to  make  it  the  capital  city  of  the  province.  Their  plans  miscarried,  however,  and 
the  12,000  population  which  the  town  contained  in  17S5,  soon  diminished  to  400,  many  of  the  people  returning  to  the  land 
thev  had  left.  Over  two  million  of  dollars  were  sunk  in  the  enterprise,  and,  altogether,  the  earlv  historv  of  the  place  is  a 
melancholy  one.  To-day  there  are  about  1,500  people  in  the  tow  11,  and,  besides  the  magniticent  harbor,  the  points  af  interest 
include  the  Roseway  River,  and  IJirchtown,  a  settlement  peopled  by  the  descendants  of  Southern  slaves,  five  miles  from  Shel- 
burne.    A  dailv  stage  runs  from  Shelburne  to  Liverpool  and  ^  armouth. 

34 


I 


Tlu'  irmaiiider  of  the  coast  joiinicv  is  aloiii;-  tlic  rockx  soiitli-castcrn  shore  of  the  pro\  iiice,  in  the  track  of  pecuHar  currents 
tliat  sometimes  take  wreckaij^e  from  tlie  \  iciiiity  of  Slielburne  itself",  awav  anunul  to  tiie  eastern  sliores  of  the  liav  of  I'lmdy. 
Numerous  ])oints  of  interest  are  ])asse(K  inchulinLr  Clyde  Ri\ei',  where  lobster-pack in<j  is  carried  on.  and  Cape  Negro,  which 
was  so  named  by  Champlain,  in  1604,  because  of  the  supjiosed  resemblance  of  a  certain  rock  to  a  negro's  head.  The  Salvage 
Rocks.  otV  lihmce  Island  (another  scene  of  wrecks),  stand  at  the  gateway  of  the  historic  Ha\  of  Port  Latonr.  Here  agr.in,  as 
at  Annapolis  and  Louisburg.  the  tourist  must  brush  up  his  knowledge  of  early  Anieric:ui  history,  and  call  to  miiul  the  stirring 
stoiN  of  Sieiir  de  la  Tour.     The  remains  of  this  noted  man's  fort  van  still  be  set'u  here. 

vStill  farther  down  the  coast  is  Cape  vSal)le  Island,  located  at  night  by  a  fixed  red  light,  and  whose  first  settlers  were 
FriMich  Acadiaus.  The\  were  followed  b\  New  l-ngland  Loyalists,  after  the  original  settlement  had  been  broken  u\)  h\  the 
British.  .\t  the  extremi'  southern  end  of  this  island,  and  likew  ise  of  No\  a  Scotia  itself,  is  Ca|)e  Sable.  There  can  be  no 
ijuestiou  about  tiiis  being  an  interesting  i)lace.  lor  it  is  here  that  I.eif  Ericson,  the  intrej^id  Norsi'man.  is  supposed  to  ha\e 
landed  in  tlu'  \  ear  994.  and  others  of  his  countr\ men,  subse(|ui'iul\ .  Here,  indeed,  is  food  for  reflection  and  speculation  as 
the  tourist  sails  slowK  by  on  his  gradualK  ending  journex .  and  studies  intentb  thosi'  rock\  shores  that  might  tell  so  much  if 
the\   could. 

'I'hrough  Harrington  passage  the  steamer  runs,  with  Cape  Sable  Island  on  the  left  and  the  mainland  on  the  right,  stopping 
at  Harrington  itself,  the  home  of  man\  a  hard\  seaman  and  many  a  stout  No\a  .Scotian  shi]).  .\fter  na\  igating  se\  eral  narrow 
and  tide-swept  channels,  the  open  sea  is  once  more  gained,  and  the  steamer  gradually  veering  to  the  north-ea.-t,  conies  in  sight 
of  Seal  Island,  '"the  elbow  of  the  Ha\  of  Fuiuh."  as  it  is  called.  This  is  some  distance  out  to  sea,  on  the  left,  and  has  a  tall 
lighthouse.  Some  ba<'  ^  recks  haye  occurred  on  the  siiores  of  this  wind-swept  outpost.  The  important  lishing  village  of 
Pubnico  is  the  next  jiou..  of  interest  on  the  right,  and  then  the  steamer  crosses  the  mouth  of  Argyle  Hay  and  the  estuary  of  the 
'I'nskef  River  into  tiie  remarkalde  and  |)ictures(|ue  archipelago  of  the  Tusket  Islands.  These  islands,  in  infinite  variety  of  size 
and  shape,  stand  rigiit  out  in  the  ocean,  w  ithout  even  the  protecting  shores  of  a  bay  to  encircle  them,  and  through  them  the 
sw  ift  tides  and  currents  rush  in  all  directions.  In  their  beauty  and  unic|ueness.  they  are  trul\  a  fitting  climax  to  the  wonderful 
journev  through  and  around  the  province  of  Nova  Scotia  that  the  tourist  is  now  reluctantly  completing. 

.\nd  thus  it  ends,  as  all  things  earthly  must.  Soon  comes  Jebogue  Point  and  Yarmouth  .Sound,  and  then  C;ipe  Forchu, 
which  gave  us  greeting  to  the  Land  of  Evangeline.  I'pon  it  stands  the  lighthouse  that  illumes  the  way  to  Yarmouth  harlior, 
and  from  wliich  is  always  given  the  affectionate  farewell  salute  to  the  stately  steamer  as  she  sweeps  liy  in  the  early  night,  taking 
back  the  returning  traveler  to  his  native  land.  35 


And  tilt"  great  ships  sail  outward,  and  return. 

Bending  and  bowing  o'er  the  billowy  swells, 
And  ever  joyful,  as  they  see  it  burn. 

They  wave  their  silent  welcomes  and  farewells. 

So  may  these  pages  be  a  light  unto  tiie  weary  and  heavy  laden,  and,  dimly  as  they  Inirn,  serve  as  a  guide  to  one  of  the 
sweetest  and  most  restful  havens  that  God  has  vouchsafed  toman — a  place  that  cannot  be  adequately  described  with  |ien  or 
brush,  that  cannot  be  seen  in  a  week  or  in  a  year;  a  place  where  there  is  room  .\nd  welcome  for  every  man,  woman  or  child 
in  the  United  States  who  ever  takes  a  vacation  — the  hospitalile,  glorious,  health-giving  Land  of  the  Mavtiower, 


Gamb    Laws    ok    Tiit:    Pkov^incb. 


The  following  summary  of  the  game  laws  of  the  pn)\  ince  will  l)e  found  useful  for  refereuci 
tained  from  agents  at  most  of  the  pojndar  ])niiUs  of  dei)arture  for  the  hunting  regions: 


Licenses  can  now  he  ob- 


Moosi-;  AND  (-'AKiisor.  'rhc  close  season  for  niuosc  and  carilwiu  is  from  ist  February  to  i4tli  September,  both  inclusive  —  that  is  to  say 
they  may  be  hiint-d  upon  and  after  15th  Septend)er  till  and  upon  31st  January.  No  person  shall  have  any  green  meat  in  his  possession,  nor  offer 
it  for  sale  except  in  the  months  aforesaid,  and  the  first  five  days  in  February.  Possession  of  green  meat  in  close  sea.son  is  presumptive  evidence 
of  its  having  been  killed  in  close  season,  by  the  person  in  jjossession  of  it.  Any  person  killing  moose  or  caribou  shall  carry  the  meat  out  of  the 
woods  within  10  days,  but  not  later  in  any  case  than  51)1  Februar\ .  Penalty  for  breacli  of  foregoing,  not  less  than  $30  nor  more  than  $50  for 
each  offense.  No  person  shall  kill  in  one  season  more  than  two  moose  and  rive  caribou  under  tlie  same  penalty.  Hunting  moose  or  caribou 
with  snare,  or  by  dogs  is  punishable  with  heavy  fine. 

Othkk  .Ammai.s.  IJeaver. —  No  jierson  shall  huiu  lor  or  kill  l)eaver  except  in  November,  Decend)er,  January,  February  and  March. 
Penalty  not  less  than  Jio  nor  more  than  Sij- 

Hare,  rabbit.— .No  person  shall  luint  or  kill  or  liave  in  possession  hares  or  raijl)its  between  first  of  March  and  October.  No  snares  shall 
be  set  during  that  period.  .All  snares  set  shall  be  taken  up.  .No  hedge  of  greater  length  than  50  feet  shall  be  erected  in  connection  with  or  be- 
tween any  snare  or  snares.  .A  space  of  100  feet  must  be  left  between  any  one  hedge  and  another.  Any  such  illegally  set  may  be  destroyed. 
Penalty,  rive  dollars  for  each  offense.     Possession  after  5th  March  is  jiresimiptive  evidence  that  the  same  was  illegally  taken. 

Other  mink-furred  animals. —  Close  season  between  1st  May  and  ist  Novend)er.  Close  season  for  all  (jther  fur  animals  from  ist  April  to 
ist  November.  .Animals  excepted — the  hear,  wolf,  loupcervier,  wild  cat,  skunk,  raccoon,  woodchuck,  mushquash  and  fox.  Penalty,  five  dollars 
for  each  offense. 

HiKDs.  Woodcock,  snipe,  teal. — Clo.se  .season,  from  Marcii  isl  to  .\ugust  joth.  No  person  shall  kill  any  woodcock  before  sunrise  or  after 
sunset. 

Partridge,  Grouse. — Close  season  from  January  1st  to  Septend)er  ijtii.     Unlawful  to  sell,  buy,  or  have  in  possession  during  such  time. 

Duck. — Unlawful  to  kill  or  have  in  possession  any  blue-winged  duck  during  the  months  of  April,  May,  June  and  July. 

The  possession  of  any  of  the  above-mentioned  birds  in  close  season  is  presumptive  e\idence  of  unlawful  killing  by  the  person  in  possession 

37 


of  it.  I'eiialty  for  killing;  any  ot  tlic  above-ineiitioned  birds  not  less  tlian  $5.  nor  more  than  Sio  lor  cacii  olfensc.  in  addition  to  f  i  for  t-acli  of 
such  birds  killed,  taken,  or  had  in  possession  in  close  season. 

I'heasant.—  I'nlawful  to  take,  kill  or  have  in  possession  any  pheasant  at  any  time  of  year -- penalty  $2. 

In.sectiverous  Birds.—  I'nlawful  to  kill  robins,  swallows  and  other  small  birds  or  birds  of  .song,  exiept  such  as  may  l)e  killed  '.or  special 
license  from  provincial  secretary  as  specimens  of  natural  history.  Any  game  may  be  killed  under  such  license,  at  any  time  for  scientific  investi- 
gation. Unlawful  to  trap  or  take  alive  or  expose  for  sale  alive  or  to  destroy  the  eggs  or  nest  of  any  of  the  birds  referred  to.  Penalty,  5i  for 
each  offense,  in  addition  to  10  cents  for  each  bird.     .\ny  traj)  or  snare  may  be  destroyed,  and  any  such  bird  set  free. 

LicKNSK. —  No  person  wiiose  domicile  is  not  within  .\ova  Scotia  shall  kill  or  iiunt  any  of  the  above  mentioned  animals  or  birds  without 
having  obtained  a  license.  Licenses  are  sold  by  the  clerk  of  municii)ality  in  each  county,  from  the  office  of  the  provincial  secretary  and  by  the 
agents  of  the  Game  .Society  appointed  in  various  convenient  places  through  the  province.  Licenses  shall  be  in  force  only  from  August  ist.  or 
the  day  of  their  delivery,  till  August  ist  ensuing.  License  fee.  $30  for  moose  and  game,  and  $10  for  birds.  Kvery  holder  of  a  license  must  pro- 
duce the  same  when  rec|uired  by  any  justice  of  the  peace,  game  commissioner  or  ofiicer  of  (lann'  Society. 

Export  of  hides,  &c. —  I'nlawfal  to  export  moose  or  caribou  hides  from  Nova  Scotia.  Any  hides  attempted  to  be  expoi ted  shall  be  forfeited. 
Penalty.  $s  for  each  hide.     I'nlawful  to  export  deer,  partridge  or  woodcock.     Penalty,  $20. 

Fish. — .Salmon,  close  season,  from  August  isth  to  Marcli  ist.  except  that  salmon  may  l)e  fished  for  with  the  fly  alone  from  February  ist  to 
August  15th.  From  low  water  nearest  6  o'clock  P.  NL  of  every  .Saturday  to  low  water  nearest  6  A.  .M.  of  every  Mondav.  no  one  shall  tish  for 
salmon  in  tidal  waters.  In  non-tidal  waters  frecpiented  by  salmon  no  one  shall  rtsh  for  any  kind  of  fish  between  9  o'clock  P.  M.  of  every  .Satur- 
day and  6  o'clock  A.  .\L  of  the  following  Monday.  Drifting  and  dipping  for  salmon  is  i)rohil)ite(l.  Penalty  for  breach  of  foregoing  provisions. 
$20  each  offense. 

Trout,  etc. — Unlawful  to  fish  for  or  have  in  possession  any  speckled  trout,  lake  trout  or  land  locked  salmon  between  ist  October  and  ist 
April.  L'nlawful  to  fish  for  trout  by  any  other  means  than  angling  witli  hook  and  line.  Penalty  for  breach  of  foregoing  provision.s,  $20  for 
each  offense. 

Explosives. — The  use  of  explosives  to  kill  any  kind  of  fish  is  prohil)ited  under  a  penalty  of  $20. 

Mass. — Close  season  from  ist  March  to  ist  October,  except  that  bass  may  be  fished  for  at  all  times  by  angling  with  hook  and  line.  Ha.ss 
shall  not  be  fished  for  by  any  net  having  meshes  of  a  le.ss  size  than  6  inches,  extension  measure,  nor  by  means  of  seines.     Penalty,  520. 

.Shad  and  gaspereaux. — Close  time  for  shad  and  gaspereaux  shall  be  from  sunset  on  Friday  evening  to  sunrise  on  .Monday  morning  in  each 
week.     Penaltv.  S20. 


Nova    Scot  i  a     h  (  )T  k  ls  . 


The  loliowing  is  ;i  list  ol'  tlic  principa 
(^ueen  and  llnlifax,  can  loinfortabiv  house 
Rates  will  range  t'roni  $4  to  $9  (ler  week,  h 
as  to  terms  and  acconiniodation. 


Iioteis  and  lioartlint;  iioiises 
J50  and  ^50  guests,  respective! 
ut  will  average  $5  to  $C).         It 


of  tne  province.     Outside  of  Halifax  (whose  two  leading  hotels,  the 
\),  they  will  acconiniodate  from  15  to  75,  or  ,]'  o,  on  an  average, 

will  alwavs  be  well  to  communicate  with  the  I'ietors  in  advance, 


TOWN. 
.A.MHKKSr. 


.\.\NAroi.i.s. 


.A.MKiOMSII. 


Arichat. 

AVI.ESKORr). 
HAI>nK(  K. 

Ueufoko. 
Hkkwk  K. 


MKIIHiKIOW  N. 


HOTEL. 

Amher.st. 

Lamy. 

Terriice. 

I'erkins"  Hotel. 

American  Hou.se. 

Clifton  House. 

Dominion, 

Oakland  Farm, 

Central  House, 

Cunningham  Hotel. 

Smith's. 

Randall's. 

Sea  \'iew. 

Aylest'ord. 

Hras  dOr  House. 

Telegraph. 

Hedford. 

Bellevue. 

Central  House. 

Commercial. 

Berwick  Hotel. 

Revere. 

( Irand  Central. 

Chute's. 

Bridgetown  lintel. 


PROPRIETOR. 

.(ieorge  McFarlane. 

\V.  B.  Canong. 

( ieo.  1).  Fuchs. 

C.  A.  Perkins. 

Mrs.  J.  H.  McLeod. 

VVni.  .McLellan. 

A.  11.  Riordan. 

.Mrs.  1).  M.  .\ichols. 

Rut  us  Hale. 

.Mrs.  II.  K.Cunningham. 

H.  C.  Smith. 

Mrs.  W.  Randall. 

.Mrs.  Hosdt. 

M.  .N.  Craves. 

Frank  .Anderson. 

J.  Dunlap. 

J.  C.  .Morrison. 

William  Wilson. 

Mrs.  X'aughn. 

Thos.  .Murphy. 

(Ieo.  Kirkpatrick. 

.Mrs.  Russell. 

W.  J.  (Jleiicross. 

.Mrs.  A.  .M.  Chute. 

1 .  J.  Ivagleson. 


TOWN. 

Bkii)(;i;w..\  ri:i<. 

C'ANNlNfi. 
I)l(iHV. 


(iUAM)  .Nakkows. 
Hai.ika.\. 


llANTSI'OKr. 
KiNtiSTON. 

Kentvii.lk. 


l,A\VKi:.S(  I-.TOW A. 


HOTEL. 

i-'airview. 

I'-ureka, 

Waverly. 

Royal  Hotel. 

-Myrtle. 

Short's  Hotel. 

De  Balinhard's. 

Acacia  \'alley, 

Grand  .\arrows, 

Halifa.x. 

Queen'.s, 

Waverly. 

.Acadian, 

Royal. 

Carleton, 

.American, 

Hantsport, 

Kingston, 

Lyon's, 

Kentville. 

Revere. 

I'orter, 

.American, 

Victoria, 

Flm  House, 


PROPRIETOR. 

T.  L.  1)0)  le. 

Mr.  Forshay. 

A.  B.  Baxter. 

J.  Daley. 

W.  Hayden. 

.Mrs.  Short. 

J.  A.  C.  De  Balinhard. 

Capt.  Raymond. 

.McDougall  &  McNeil. 

Hesslein  &  Son. 

A.  B.  Sheraton. 

.Miss  Romans. 

(ieo.  .Nichols. 

L.  D.  Windsor. 

Mrs.  Margeson. 

E.  W.  Dalton. 

Ja.s.  Wall. 

Capt.  West. 

U.  McLeod. 

Jas.  Lyons. 

Mrs.  W.  Redden. 

Rufus  Porter. 

Jas.  Mcintosh. 

C.  E.  Farrow. 

A.  Phinnev. 


TOWN. 
MiODLETON. 

Mabou. 

Ml'l-ORAVK. 


NkW  (il.ASCiOW. 


NOKTH  SYUNKV. 


Oxford. 


I'akushoko. 


I'RTOt  . 


I'OKT  tfA\VKi:sIH 
tt 

POKT  HASTIN(iS. 
Fl'CiWASH. 


HOTEL. 

American. 
Middleton. 
Murray  House. 
Sea  Side, 
Central. 
.Murray  House. 
McLeod  Hou.se. 
Windsor. 
Norfoli<. 
Vendonie. 
McLellan  House, 
\'endome, 
IJeiniont. 
O.xford. 
B^ureka  House. 
Waverley  House. 
(Irand  Central, 
Queens, 
Minas, 

Kelse  House,  (i'at.  Isl.) 
Cumberland  House. 
Revere, 

Weldon  House. 
Cfntrr.I. 
K v.. American  House. 
Farquliar, 
Cliisholni  House. 
Central. 
Acadia, 

.•\'"erican  House, 
Temperance  House, 


PROPRIETOR. 

I).  Feindel. 
D.  Freeman. 
Mrs.  Murray. 
J'.  A.  Grant. 
C.  Whooten. 
U.  Murray. 
Mrs.  McLeod. 
Mrs.  C.  Mckenzie. 
H.  Murray. 
Thomas  lieecli. 
J.  R.  .Mcl.elian. 
John  Suiitli. 
John  McDonald. 
N.  -S.  Thompson. 
Patrick  W'oodlock. 
Mrs.  Wm.  .Moore. 

C.  E.  Day. 

D.  .McNamara, 
M.  (lavin. 

J.  T.  Tipping. 
A.  H.  White. 
C.  L,  Rood, 
(ieorge  (jeldert. 
I).  I'.  Adamson. 
.Mrs.  Cameron. 
F.  .Mc(]innis. 
Mrs.  Chisholm. 
K.  I).  Woodlock. 
Mrs.  \\  m.  Chapman. 
W.  H.  IJrown. 
J.  C.  Smith. 


TOWN. 

SVDNKV. 


Kl'KO. 


TlSKKT. 

Wai.i.ack. 
WKv.Morrii. 

WiNliSilK. 


\\'oi.K\  ii.i  i: 


YaKMiU    1  II. 


HOTEL. 

.McKenzie  House. 

Clarke  House, 

Private  Hoarding 

Prince  of  Wales. 

Parker  House. 

X'ictoria. 

Railway. 

Learment, 

Grand  Central. 

.American  House, 

Wallace. 

Hillside. 

Jones'  Hotel. 

y\merican  Hou.se. 

Avon, 

X'ictoria. 

Clifton. 

Wind.sor. 

Somerset. 

Hotel  'i'homas. 

.Acadia. 

Central  House. 

Wolfville. 

.American. 

May  \'ie\v, 

Kent  Lodge. 

Waverly. 

Qu:en. 

Lome. 

^'armollth. 


PROPRIETOR. 

H.  R.  McKenzie. 
Mrs.  Clarke. 
House, Mrs.  Chas.  ^L  Lorway. 
A.  L.  Mckenzie. 
.Mrs.  .Schroder. 
N.  A.  Ross. 
A.  S.  Murphy. 
.A.  H.  Learment. 
A.  Carter. 
W.  H.  (lilman. 
Mrs.  Munroe. 
K.  Edgett. 
Forbes  Jones. 

John  Ct).x. 
T.  Doran. 
I'.  Kilcup. 
T.  Ciib.son. 
\V.  C.ibson. 
I'red  Maurice. 

■Mrs.  t  .  R.  Quinn. 
H.  1).  Farrell. 
J.  W.  Harris. 
Mrs.  H.  Brown. 
.Mrs.  Halihurton. 
A.  li.  iiaxter. 
!•;.  M.  Nichols. 
Fred  Ryerson. 
W.  H.  S.  Dahlgren. 


40 


a 


The  New 

Steel 
Steamer 
Bridgewater  " 


(Classed  Al  at  Lloyds.) 


Sails  from  Halifax  for  Bridgewater  and  Liverpool  ever}/  Wednes- 
day morning  8  A.  M.,    and  for   Bridgewater  every  Saturday. 

Returning,  leaves  Bridgewater  every  Monday  and  Thursday  morning, 
at  9  A.  M.,  for  Halifax. 

From  Liverpool  every  Wednesday   evening    for  Bridgewater  and 

Halifax. 

-iii.  ^.i  .iii.  -iilC 

~?N-        ^?r        -Jf-       ^K 

Tourists  will  find  the  sail  very  enjoyable  along  the  coast  and  on 
the  Lahave  River.  The  steamer  connects  at  Bridgewater  with 
the  Nova  Scotia  Central  R.  R.,  an^  affords  a  very  attractive 
return  trip  to  parties  visiting  Lunenburg  County  by  railroad. 

Fares  cheap  and  accommodations  first-class. 

Agent  at  Halifax,  FRANK     DAVISON, 

JOSEPH  WOOD,  Central  Wharf.  J'res.  and  Man. 


NOVA  •  SCOTIA  ♦  CENTRAL  •  RAILWAY 


:>^. 

^(^ 


S».:r— r— »; 


This  T{ailwdy  connects  with   the  M^indsor  and  Annapolis   Railway  at  Middleton 

and  inns  across  the  province  to  Itie 

ATLANTIC  COAST  AT  BRIDGEWATER.  MAHONE  BAY  AND  LUNENBURG. 


BRIDGEWATER 


It  opens  up  a  tine  Agricultural  district  and  abounds 
in  hard  and  soft  wood  timber.  The  ride  is  at- 
tractive to  tourists  for  its  picturesqueness  and  to 
sportsmen  for  ^wmt  and   fishinjj. 

At  Bridgewater  are  Stage  Lines  connecting  Liverpool 
and  other  points  west,  and  also  with  the  gold 
mining  districts  of  Caledonia,  Brookfield  and 
Malaga. 

The  headquarters  are  at  Bridgewater. 

F.    B.  WADE, 

Ovlana,s;cr. 


A.  W.  CHESTERTON  &  CO. 


Railroad  and  Steamship  Supplies. 

STEAM  .  PACKINGS,  .  RUBBER  .  GOODS,  .  OILS,  .  WASTE,  .  ETC.,  .  ETC. 


No.    49    INDIA    STREET 


BOSTON,    IVIASS. 


V.  A.  VooD  Zc  Go. 

0<]jVIANUFACTURKRS    OF_-^{f   ^J    I    Ij    JN    ^{c    AND     DEALERS    IN    [>0 

Office,  371  i^s:  373  Atlantic  Ave.    *    Wcirehoi.ise,  32   Purchase  St. 

TELEPHONE    NO,,....  BOSTON. 


We  carry  a  full  line  of  Cylinder,  Engine  and  Machinery  Oils  for  general  work. 

Marine,  Engine  and  Cylinder  Oils  a  specialty. 
WRITE  FOK  PKicK  i-isT.  Our  Olls  are  filtered  and  therefore  free  from  acid. 


This  is  the  Famous 


^1  iAZHITE   •»•   TRAIN  1^ 


Running  between 

BOSTON 

AND 

NEW  YORK. 

Leaving  either  city  at  3  P.  M. 
daily,  and  due  at  the  other  at 
9  P.M. 

SPEED, 
-^      COMFORT, 
LUXURY. 


Of  the  New  York  and  New  England  Railroad. 

It  is  one  of  the  most 

ELECANTLY  APPOINTED 


in  the  world,  is  equipped  with 
superb  DINING  SERVICE,  and 
ensures 

SIX  HOURS 
-%  OF 

HAPPINESS. 


The  popular  NOON  EXPRESS,  leavinij-  either  cwy  at  12  M.  and  due  at  the  other  at  (^.^0  P-  M., 
is  also  an  immense  favorite  with  the  traveling  public.  The  Washington  Express,  laivin.!tr  Boston'ai 
7  P.  M.,   \^x\  the  6.?i^  P.  M.  Norwich  Line  express  from  Boston  are  also  to  be  recommended. 

summer  tourists  can  find  no  better  route.    .    .    . 

Ticket  Office,  Depot,  Foot  of  Summer  Street,  and  M2  Washington  Street,  Boston. 


•^^^Vestgrn  GouNTies  Railwhy>^^ 

The    Onlii    Line    Throuuh    the    Picturm/ifc    IVesteni    Section    of   Xom    Scotia. 


"■!'•     I*"|f>|<1|<.|     .■        ■       I 


i<*i<ii<aiii>>ii<i<i 


i>iiiii<ai>i.iar. 


Comiecting  witli  Yamoutli  S,  S, 
Co.  at  Yarmontli,  and  Windsor  and 
Annapolis  Railway  at  Annapolis,  lor 
Weymoutli,  Digby,  tlie  Annapolis 
Valley,  tlie  Land  ol  Eyangeline, 
Halifax,  Cape  Breton,  and  all  other 
points  in  tlie  Province ;  and  also  tor 
St.  Jolin.  Boston.  New  York  and  all 
points  in  llie  United  Slates  and 
Canada 


rai.ai.a  .a'<ai'a<'a><a" 


■  '  a"aMaiiaiiaiiai^iaF.a..aiiaiiaiiai^iaHaiiaMaii»7fiTTi 

Tills  Line  is  tnorongliiy  eouipped, 
audjainlains  last  and  modern  ex- 
press trains  tlirongliont  tne  ;enlire 
snninier  season,  Some  of  tuc  Inest 
scenery  in  the  Province  is  fonnd  on 
the  line  of  tMs  road,  inclnding  the 
BEAUTIPDL  ANNAPOLIS  BASIN, 
and  tourists  should  not  fail  to  travel 
this  way 

«    ■    a    ■"■<  •'>a"ai<aiiBi'BMa'Tairai>iiMii'iiii7alTaH 

Stage  connections  are   made    at  Yarmouth   and   Digby   for   local    points.     The   Western    Counties    Railway 
forms  the    popular    GATEWAY    TO    NOVA    SCOTIA'S    SUMMER    RESORTS. 

HEAD   OFFICE    AT    YARMOUTH,    N.  S. 

J.   EU^lGNElJ.,   General   Superintendenl.  Wm.  Fimser,  General  Passenger  Agent. 


^m  "  QUEEN  *  HOTEL "  -^^ 


Halifax,    N.    S, 
^.    'S.    SHERATON      .        .        .        . 


iMdiidiirr. 


If  anything  can  make  a  visit  to  Halifax  a  source  of  pleasure  it  is  a  good  hotel.  With 
this  in  mind  we  take  much  pleasure  in  calling  the  attention  of  Travelers  and  Tourists  to 
this  fine  hostelry,  containing  130  rooms,  fitted  with  all  modern  improvements.  Special 
mention  should  be  made  of  the  luxurious  furnishings  of  the  ladies'  i)arlor,  the  large  and 
comfortable  chambers  and  the  excellent  cuisine.  ()ne  visit  will  satisfy  any  one  of  the 
superiority  of  the  Hotel.  The  (Jueen  is  the  largest  Hotel  in  the  Lower  Provinces,  and 
under  the  able  management  of  Mr.  Sheraton,  is  rapidly  leaving  other  Canadian  Hotels  in 
the  background.  It  is  the  only  Hotel  in  the  City  of  modern  construction  and  management, 
and  its  reputation  has  been  well  earned.  A  good  time  is  guaranteed  in  advance  to  those 
who  stop  at  The  Queen.  Visitors  from  the  "  States"  will  find  that  the  accommodations  and 
service  at  The  Oueen  are  equal  to  the  best  houses  in  the  land. 


What  Our  GUESTS  Say  Oi    Us. 


Tourists  and  travelers  without  exception,  ^.pMk  in  warm  terms  (if  their  treatment  at  Mr.  A.  II.  Slieraton's  Oueen  Hotel.  Halifax.  The  house  is  most  eleuaiitly  fitted  up. 
the  tal)le  and  service  is  lirst-class,  and  Sir.  Sheraton  anil  his  fjenial  assistants,  do  their  lx!st  to  make  the  guests  of  The  "Queen"  comfort.ihle,  and  admirably  succeed.  Thi' 
"Queen"  is  doing  a  splendid  business.-  .lAjr/Z/Wt'  Fanner. 

Thk  Ouekn  Hotri,  Halifax.  X.  S.  Visitors  to  Halifax  will  find  Thk  Qi'KKN  !Iori:i.  the  Ivst  liouse  in  the  city.  l»ing  fitted  througl-.out  with  all  modern  impro\t- 
ments,  and  furnished  with  new  and  handsome  furniture.    The  cuisine  is  the  best  of  any  hotel  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  -  /nf/Z/wtirc  .  liiierinin. 

A  C'HF.niT  TO  Hahi- AX. --The  Queen  is  a  hotel  which  for  elegance  of  appointments,  thoioiinhness  of  attendance  .iiid  completeness  of  cuisine,  cannot  be  surpassed  in  tlic 
Maritime  Provinces  and  probably  by  very  few  houses  in  Canada.— ^7'<?«/«g-  Afail. 


RUSSIAN   HARVEST  PILGRIMS. 

Photographed  with  a  KAMARET,  the  most  compact  and  most  desirable  camera  for 
Tourists.  Send  to  the  Blair  Camera  Co.,  Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia  or  Chicago,  or 
E.  and  H.  "[^  Anthony   &  Co.,   Trade  Agents,   New  York,  for  a  Kamaret  booklet. 


Ppeuidence  ctrpd  Stonir^gton  c§teami,hip  ©oroparj)tj. 


—  PROVIDENCE   LINE 

(M/IY  TO  NOI/EMBER)  hefween 

NEiAZ  YORK  T^ND    BOSTON. 


•i<^ 


LONGEST  IVATER  ROUTE. 

SHORTEST  RAIL  RIDE, 

ASSURING  FULL  NIGHTS  REST 
IVITH  EARLY  ARRIVAL. 


'■fW.  ,    :  -  -/. 


A/^  GNIFICEN  T  S  TEAMERS , 

PARLOR  CAR  TRAINS, 

EXTENSIVE  CONNECTIONS 
Makes  this  Line 


The  great  Tourist  Route  to  all  New  England  and  White  Mountain  Points. 

Steamers  "  CoNNKCTici'T  "  and  "  Massachusetts  "  leave  Pier  (old  No.)  29.  N.  R.,  at  5.30  or  6  F*.  M.,  daily,  except  Sunday. 


^ 


—  STONINCTON    LING— ~- 

ONLY   DIRECT   SOUND    ROUTE    TO 

WATCH    HILL   AND   NARRAGANSETT   PIER. 


•1^ 


Kntirely  New  and  Maj^nificent  Steel  Steamers  '-Maink'"  and  "  Nkw  Hami'SUIRK  "  leave  xN'ew  Pier  36.   N.  R..  at  5  P.  M.,  daily,  except 
Sundays.     Also,  Sundays  during  July  and  August. 

f'^"  Send  for  hook'of  Summer 'Excursions,  Tours,  and  Rates  to         Q     J^      BRIGGS,    Gen'l    PaSS.    AgFNT 

J.  W.  MILLER,  '        New  Pier  36,  N. 'r., 

Presidhnt.  New  York. 


\ 


The  ''Land  of  Evangeline"  Route. 


/ 


THE    WINDSOR    ani^    ANNAPOLIS    RAILWAV   (ok  nova  scoha) 

Is  tlie  Ix'aii  uIcmI  nf  the  I'mirist's  Kdad,  tliu  lx.st  and  most  ivcL-nt  iiiiproveiiieiits  —  stixl  rails,  air  brakes,  new  mlliii'^  stuck      making  travil  a  luxury,  tliroiiKli  scciii'S  over  whic li 
l.()\(il"IM  I  I  >\\    lavished  t'.ie  ^pkiidors  o(  his  inianinative  Kt'iiius.     llauKaite  checked  to  all  points,  and  no  dust  thrown  in  I'assenKcrs' eyes,  even  in  this  .\ilvertiseiuent. 
READ   THIS  :      I'he  Kaihvav  runs  through  the  far-famed  Annapolis  \allev,  the  garden  of  the  Maritime  I'rovinces.  and  over  tjround  where  the  love-tranedv  of 

EVANGELINE 

was  woven  in  Lite's  shuttle.       I'he  beauties  of  seascape  .ind  landscape  cm 

NEVER 

lie  excelle<l  elsewhere,  and  the  scenes  made  so  real  and  familiar  in  the  work  of  the  ureatest  .\mencan  Poet  are  here,  everv  one.  I'hrouHb  the  c.ir  windows  the  enchanted 
traveler  sees  the  old  Willows,  the  Site  of  the  t'luirch.  and  liasil's  Ulacksmith  Shop.     Evangeline 

SAW 

her  (leople  building  the  t\ventv-thr*H;  miles  of  Dvke.  to  keep  at  I)ay  the  turbulent  ti(ies.  and  where  "distant,  secluded,  still,  the  little  vill,ii;e  of  (ir.md  I're  lay  in  the  fruitful 
vallev."  whence  far  awav  ti>  the  ea  tward  as  far  as  eje  can  reach,  stretch  vast  meadows  pictured  bv 

LONGFELLOW 

with  magic  i)en.     Cross  the  Tiaspereaux  River.     See  the  cpiiet  loveliness  of  the  r..\>in  ol   Mm.is.  .md  where  I'.lomidon  crouches  in  lonelv  grandeur,  keepiiiK 

WATCH 

and  ward  over  the  point  of  embarkation,  from  which  the  .Vcadi.m  exiles  saw  with  stre.iminH  eves  tlie  last  of  their  old  homes.  In  the  distance  lie  the  h'ive  Islands,  like  precious 
stones  ''set  in  the  silver  sea."  lie  sure  and  break  at  Kentville  where  you  can  have  salmon  and  trout  lishini;  to  your  he.irt's  content,  with  plenty  of  game  alioiit  in  the  .uitiinni, 
and  the  best  of  hotels  to  m.ike  you  comfortable,  (ioto  the  l.ook-olf  on  the  North  Mountain;  th-n  throu;4h  the  (ias|)ereaux  \'alley,  visiting  Wojfville  .md  Ac.ulia  t.'olleue  ; 
then  to  the  <  iasijereaux  Valley  :  now  on  to  Windsor,  where  all 

TOURISTS 

visit  the  home  of  immortal  "  SAM  SI.ICK."  known  at  liis  own  fireside  as  Jud^e  llaliburton  :  see  Kinii'^  College,  also  the  immense  Gypsum  Quarries.  Don't  fornct  to  keep 
an  eve  on  '.he  tides  that 

RUSH 

up  hill  in  the  beautiful  .\von  River.     I  lave  a  ylimpse  of  old  I'ort  Edward :  revel  in  the  t;lorioiis  Mountain  Scenery  ;  then  im 

TO    HALIFAX 

where  a  feast  of  delight  is  provided  for  the  Tourist  in  the  great  Kortitic.itions,  the  m:ignitKent  llarlxir,  the  beautiful  Garden^,  and  the  linest  N.itural  I'.iik  m  the  world. 
Health-seekers  won't  fail  to  rememlwr  that  in  traveling 

BY    THE    WINDSOR     AND     ANNAPOLIS     RAILWAY 

they  are  in  one  of  the  Ijest  climates  on  the  foot-stool,  where  the  air  is  the  only  meilicine  rei|uired  to  keep  you  fresh  as  paint. 


Chicai*    I=AKt:s 


First-class  Hotel  Accommodation  in  every  Town  at  Reasonable  Rates. 

Splendid  Steamships  running  in  connection  to  and  from  Boston  and  St.  John,  N.  B., 
While  daily  connections  are    made    putting    the    passenger  in  touch   with  every   Railway  in   Canada    and   the  States. 

i;uy  .1  Volume  of   Longfellow,  or  look  up  the  nearest   ^olui^t  .\gency.  or.  Ix.'tter  >till.  t.ike  .i  trip  to  N.iv.i  Scoti.i,  it   you  want  to  know  more  about 

The  "Land  of  Evangeline"  Route. 

K.  SUTHERLAND,  Resident  Manager.  W.  R.  CAMPBELL,  Gen'l  Manager  and  Sec'y. 


!l 


Htlhntic  Works. 


EAST    BOSTON, 
TV^ASS. 


BUILDERS    OF 


Steamsliips, 

Steam  Yachts, 

Tow  Boats, 

Marine  Engines, 

Boilers,  and 

Tanlis. 


j    Coppersmith  Work  and  General  Repairing. 


'I- 


1 


.  K)f  IN  f  1  f>R.V>'  SON S  I'  L^ ' 
CARPETS  V  UPHOLSTERY 

t-Mi 'i' ♦)*.'•.  \\AS|llSlVr»N  SI 

OPR  BOYLS70K   ST 


Copynghtsd  by  the  Yarmouth  Steamship  C"      189V!. 


